Marc Jacobs Fall Winter 2019-2020 New York. Couture notion has been given to this collection of Marc Jacobs by many critics this year. It is indeed. He showed only 40 looks. “Each [look] will be an exaggeration of our view of who each of the women is,” Marc Jacobs said during a preview. “For lack of a better word, it’s like a cabine of women we love.”
“We’re always attentive,” he said. “But this is super-considered, every single aspect, with a lot of beauty and joy. But in our way, which is not giddy this time. It’s that kind of Violet [Incredible, fall 2005] or cardboard box [fall 2010] idea or whatever. Without going backward. But certainly that fallen-angel kind of beauty. But still an angel.”
To Jacobs’ point, each look was unique within the highly focused lineup. In a follow-up to spring, full volumes prevailed, now deflated to varying degrees. Many looks referenced Jacobs’ archives — the warp-print trapeze dresses; an austere schoolgirl sweater and skirt.
The coats and capes were beyond, from sturdy solids and windowpanes to a feathered masterpiece, some nodding toward Balenciaga (Cristóbal), and some, the Salvation Army. The fabrics telegraphed high luxury: luxe cashmeres and wools; an allover sequined glen plaid; airy organza petals, made into dreamlike dresses. As for the millinery — feathered wonders by Stephen Jones, each starting with a humble knitted grunge beanie.
It was all dramatic and lyrical, while achieving Jacobs’ goal of exaggerated reality — a heavenly take on it, anyway. Fallen angels, ascendant.