Chanel Spring Summer 2025 “A Dazzling Tribute to Karl Lagerfeld – A Touchstone for Today”. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Chanel.
Chanel’s Spring Summer 2025 collection, showcased at the newly renovated Grand Palais today, brought the house’s legendary elegance and creativity to life, drawing inspiration from Karl Lagerfeld’s unforgettable designs and a dash of nostalgia. In a magnificent tribute, the show reimagined the iconic 1991 Jean-Paul Goude commercial featuring Vanessa Paradis, drawing parallels between the allure of caged beauty and the perpetual reinvention of the Chanel woman.
For Chanel, the Grand Palais isn’t just a venue; it’s an essential part of the brand’s narrative, serving as a backdrop for its most memorable shows. Freshly reopened after years of renovation, the location felt like a homecoming—an echo of the house’s tradition, reimagined under a new light. In its latest iteration, the space transformed into a colossal aviary, setting the stage for a collection that felt both historical and daringly modern.
Riley Keough, the granddaughter of Elvis Presley, made a stunning entrance as she appeared on a swing within the oversized cage, singing a haunting, revamped version of Prince’s “When Doves Cry.” The visual was a nod to Jean-Paul Goude’s 1991 commercial, where Vanessa Paradis personified a gilded bird within an aviary—a metaphor for freedom and captivity wrapped in Chanel’s signature elegance.
The collection seemed to dance between themes of liberation and restraint, with Gabrielle Chanel’s own words resonating: “People have always wanted to put me in cages. Cages with pillows filled with promises, golden cages, cages that I have touched while looking away. I have never wanted anything other than the one I would build myself.” This sentiment translated into designs that broke the mold—free-spirited yet structured, delicate yet powerful.
Birds, freedom, and flight played a dominant role in the collection’s themes, symbolized through fluttering feathers, chiffon, and plumes. These avian elements were layered alongside Chanel’s timeless tweed and light denim, giving an effortless blend of classic Chanel elegance and a playful, modern twist. The garments explored movement and femininity, evoking imagery of bird-women gracefully taking flight—parading in colors and textures that shimmered like plumage under the show lights.
Tweed, a staple in Chanel’s DNA, was rendered light and airy, challenging the fabric’s traditional stiffness. Delicate chiffons and silky fabrics swayed like a bird’s wings, hinting at freedom, while sleek denim outings injected a touch of casual chic, perfect for the modern Chanel woman. The result was a symphony of contrasts, with pieces that balanced fragility and strength, restraint and exuberance.
Karl Lagerfeld, who helmed Chanel for over three decades, left an indelible mark on the brand, fusing its historic elegance with contemporary edge. This collection paid homage to his vision, infusing the show with references to his playful reinterpretations of Chanel’s signature elements. Lagerfeld’s influence was evident in the precision of tailoring, unexpected fabric pairings, and the theatricality of the runway presentation.
Beyond mere nostalgia, the collection took Lagerfeld’s vision as a foundation and pushed it forward. Whether it was in the feathered gowns that evoked a sense of ethereal lightness or the reimagined tweed sets that spoke to the versatility of the modern woman, Chanel’s Spring Summer 2025 stayed true to the brand’s spirit of defying conventions, reinventing silhouettes, and maintaining an undeniable elegance.
Chanel Spring Summer 2025 was more than a tribute to an iconic commercial; it was an exploration of femininity, freedom, and self-expression. The giant aviary that enclosed Riley Keough symbolized the many “cages” women have faced—societal expectations, fashion norms, and even self-imposed limitations—and the collection boldly encouraged breaking free.
Ultimately, Chanel reminded its audience that beauty is not found in conformity but in the ability to craft one’s own narrative. And in true Chanel fashion, the runway served not only as a showcase of stunning clothing but as a commentary on womanhood, creativity, and the endless possibilities that come when tradition meets rebellion.
As the show concluded, the message was clear: Chanel girls may be caged, but they are never confined—soaring ever higher with every beat of their feathered wings.
See All Looks Chanel Spring Summer 2025
