JW Anderson, Complications in Sue and Opera Philadelphia “JW Anderson Takes the Stage: A World of Costumes, Debuted in Opera”. Story by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo / Video Courtesy: Opera Philadelphia.
For a designer who once turned an elbow-shaped clutch into a cultural talking point, opera might seem like an oddly traditional stage for Jonathan Anderson. But Complications in Sue, the genre-defying new production from Opera Philadelphia, is no ordinary opera — and Anderson’s entrance into the world of theatrical costume design is anything but understated.
Presented at the Opera Philadelphia and debuting at the historic Academy of Music, the production marks Anderson’s world costume debut for opera – a landmark move for the creative director of JW Anderson and Loewe. And yes, the costumes are appropriately operatic in wit and ambition.
A Costume Symphony in Ten Movements
Complications in Sue unfolds through ten vignettes, each a snapshot from a different decade of the protagonist’s life — and each scored by a different composer. Think Missy Mazzoli’s layered minimalism brushing up against Cécile McLorin Salvant’s jazz-trained theatricality, with Nico Muhly’s glimmering soundscapes anchoring the entire experiment. The libretto comes from Pulitzer and Tony Award-winner Michael R. Jackson, making his operatic debut.
But what elevates the visual dimension of this sonic kaleidoscope is Anderson’s presence. This isn’t a designer parachuting into the world of opera for a cameo. His long-time collaboration with performer Justin Vivian Bond — who stars as Sue — has evolved from high-concept fashion campaigns into full-fledged costume dramaturgy. Each look in Complications in Sue doesn’t merely clothe; it narrates.
From Runway to Requiem: Anderson’s Theatrical Turn
Anderson’s costumes in this opera aren’t costumes in the conventional sense. They’re moving installations, evolving through decades with Sue’s fractured identity. Whether he’s rendering a 1980s shadow of glamour or a 2000s breakdown in minimalist layers, Anderson’s designs refuse to sit quietly in the wings.
His signature approach — playful, intellectual, and always sculptural — finds a new resonance here. Where his fashion often interrogates gender and form through wearable irony, the opera gives him a broader, darker canvas: one that calls for sincerity, not just subversion.
Anderson’s debut is also a test — can fashion translate narrative in a medium with no pause for costume changes or backstage corrections? Judging by early images and audience reactions, the answer is yes — and then some.
An Ensemble of Visionaries
The cast of Complications in Sue is as precise as the production’s architecture. Bond shares the stage with four accomplished opera singers: soprano Kiera Duffy, mezzo-soprano Rehanna Thelwell, tenor Nicky Spence, and bass-baritone Nicholas Newton. The direction is a tandem effort between Zack Winokur and Raja Feather Kelly, with conductor Caren Levine weaving the musical lines together.
The result? A 100-minute whirlwind of music, fashion, memory, and transformation — with no intermission, no filler, and no apology for breaking every operatic rule in the book.
Opera Philadelphia
Opera Philadelphia already known for challenging the boundaries of the form, may have just delivered its most audacious experiment yet. And for Jonathan Anderson — the designer who’s made a career out of reimagining the ordinary — this may be the beginning of a very theatrical second act.
Opera Philadelphia is a leading American opera company based in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Recognized for its bold approach to contemporary opera, it produces both classic repertoire and innovative new works, often commissioning and premiering pieces that challenge traditional forms of the genre.
Key facts
- Founded: 1975 (as Opera Company of Philadelphia)
- Headquarters: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, U.S.
- Artistic Director: Corrado Rovaris
- President & General Director: David B. Devan
- Primary Venue: Academy of Music
Origins and Evolution
Formed through the merger of the Philadelphia Lyric Opera Company and the Philadelphia Grand Opera Company, Opera Philadelphia aimed to sustain the city’s operatic tradition while broadening its reach. Since its rebranding in 2011, the company has emphasized innovation, collaboration, and the commissioning of new works by living composers.
Artistic Focus and Repertoire
Opera Philadelphia balances canonical works by composers such as Verdi, Mozart, and Puccini with modern operas by contemporary creators. It is especially known for world and U.S. premieres of works by composers including Kevin Puts, Missy Mazzoli, and Philip Venables. The company frequently integrates multimedia and site-specific productions to expand how opera is experienced.
O Festival and Digital Initiatives
In 2017, Opera Philadelphia launched the annual O Festival (Festival O)—a citywide celebration featuring multiple new operas and immersive performances across unconventional venues. During the COVID-19 pandemic, it expanded digital access through Opera Philadelphia Channel, streaming past productions and new digital commissions to international audiences.
Cultural Impact
Opera Philadelphia is widely regarded as one of the most forward-thinking opera companies in North America. It has helped redefine opera’s place in contemporary culture, fostering new voices and stories that reflect diverse, modern experiences while maintaining strong ties to the art form’s classical roots.
