Tod’s Spring Summer 2026 “Leave Your Mark”. Story by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Tod’s.
Matteo Tamburini placed leather—and all its many guises—at the heart of Tod’s Spring-Summer 2026 collection. Silhouettes remained pure and restrained, but Tod’s artisanal savoir-faire turned simplicity into bravura. “I wanted to evoke the languid, slightly nonchalant spirit of late summer,” said Tamburini. Nonchalance, however, was the last word one would use: the show unfolded as a virtuoso exercise in artful craftsmanship, delivered with breezy finesse.
Graphic play gave the season its modern rhythm. Summer stripes took center stage, worked through a series of inventive techniques. Regimental lines marched across seemingly classic cotton pieces that, on closer inspection, revealed themselves to be crafted from applied leather: a nod to Tod’s leather mastery, reframed in a sharper, almost edgy vocabulary.
Outerwear came with an ironic twist: a trench and a Macintosh were turned inside out, seams exposed as bold graphic punctuation. The Gommino, Tod’s icon, was reinvented yet again—its perforated surfaces reimagined as tops, threaded with linen to create a richly textured cadence. Cabans in supple caramel pashmy leather bore the mark of deliberate hand-stitching, raw and visible, like the signature of the craftsman who made them.
Equally meticulous were the softer notes: buttery nappa leather, cut into square skirts and handkerchief tops, pieced together from stripes in contrasting hues. They tied at the back as if in haste, their geometry whispering of Frank Stella’s sun-drenched palette. Here, precision wears the mask of ease, and restraint is revealed as artistry in disguise.
Tod’s Spring-Summer 2026 was a collection about understatement, sharpened by technical bravura. Leather became graphic, fluid, even playful. In Tamburini’s hands, the house left its mark—not through spectacle, but through a quiet insistence that craft, when elevated to this level, speaks louder than words.
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