40 years of Marc Jacobs – Spring 2024 “His favorite Dolls – New York Intellectuals”. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY. Photo Courtesy: Marc Jacobs.

As I pen down this tribute to Marc Jacobs on the occasion of his brand’s 40th anniversary, I can’t help but infuse it with the warmth that comes from years of not just admiring his work but also feeling a personal connection to the man behind the brand.

I vividly remember walking into his store in New York, not just as an editor but as someone who has come to regard him as a friend in the world of style. The racks filled with his creations have been witness to my own sartorial evolution, and each piece tells a story that goes beyond mere fabric and thread.

The setting for his anniversary show at the Park Avenue Armory was nothing short of magical. Dark and mysterious, it perfectly encapsulated the enigma that is Marc Jacobs. The giant folding tables and chairs, a tribute to the late artist Robert Therrien, stood tall as a testament to Marc’s ability to weave art seamlessly into his narrative. As I took in the show, it felt like being invited into the inner sanctum of his creative mind.

The models strutted down the runway, navigating under the looming table, each garment a work of art that bore the unmistakable signature of Jacobs’s irreverent yet timeless style. The play with proportions, the unconventional fabrics, and the exposed alterations – every detail spoke of a designer unafraid to push boundaries. It was a symphony of nostalgia and audacity, a hallmark of Marc’s genius.

Marc Jacobs’ words, “Through the unavoidable lens of time, my glass remains full of wonder and reflection,” resonated deeply with me. It encapsulates the essence of a designer who has not only weathered the changing tides of the fashion industry but has done so with grace, wonder, and an unwavering commitment to self-expression.

The Marc Jacobs show

The runway came alive with models who embodied the essence of dolls, their looks meticulously curated to evoke a playful and endearing aesthetic. The most striking feature was the models’ high hairdos, reminiscent of doll-like proportions that added a touch of fantasy to the entire presentation. Marc Jacobs, always the maestro of avant-garde style, played with the concept of oversized clothing, creating a visual narrative that seamlessly blended cuteness with an intellectual edge.

The collection itself was a testament to Jacobs’s ability to stay relevant and inventive after four decades in the industry. Each garment, from ladylike suits to cocktail dresses and evening columns, was infused with a sense of innocence and modernity. The oversized nature of the clothing, a departure from traditional silhouettes, added a contemporary twist, breathing life into the concept of living paper dolls.

The use of stiff foam-like fabrics and unconventional sewing techniques contributed to the disorienting yet timely aesthetic of the collection. Shoulders pushed forward on chunky sweaters, creating a 2D effect, while flat trompe l’oeil embellishments gave the illusion of necklaces or brooches. The overall effect was a delightful disruption of the ordinary, a celebration of fashion as a form of artistic expression.

Among the standout pieces was the “ludicrously capacious” version of Jacobs’s iconic Venetia bag, a nod to his past successes that seamlessly blended with the collection’s playful narrative. The inclusion of track suits with shrunken jackets and pastel velour sets added a touch of modernity, bridging the gap between the past and the present.

Perhaps the most captivating aspect of the collection was its accessibility. The everydayness of the garments was transformed into something extraordinary through Jacobs’s unique vision. The models, with their doll-like appearances, walked the fine line between nostalgia and innovation, creating a collection that felt both familiar and refreshingly new.

As the show concluded, it became evident that Marc Jacobs’s 40th-anniversary collection was a celebration not just of his illustrious career but also of the enduring spirit of creativity. The dolls, the intellectual references, and the contemporary aesthetics all converged to create a tapestry of fashion that spoke to the heart of Jacobs’s design philosophy – irreverent, cute, and eternally chic.

Marc Jacobs demonstrated with this collection that true innovation lies in the ability to playfully reinvent the familiar. Dolls and New York Intellectuals may seem like an unconventional pairing, but under Jacobs’s masterful touch, it became a harmonious celebration of 40 years of fashion excellence. Here’s to many more years of delightful surprises from the irrepressible Marc Jacobs.

Happy Anniversary, Marc!

So here’s to you, Marc! Thank you for 40 years of daring innovation, for being a devoted New Yorker whose influence stretches far beyond the runway. Cheers to the next chapter in your legacy, and I can’t wait to continue this journey with you, one impeccably designed piece at a time.

With admiration and a wardrobe full of memories,

Eleonora de Gray

See All Looks 40 years of Marc Jacobs – Spring Summer 2024

Little backstage extra