Anrealage Spring Summer 2024 “Invisible”. Story by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Anrealage.
In the world of fashion, there are moments when a designer’s vision transcends the ordinary and delves into the realm of artistry. Kunihiko Morinaga’s Spring Summer 2024 collection, aptly named “Invisible,” is one such transcendent moment. With the grace of a maestro, Morinaga weaves a tapestry of colors, light, and innovation that challenges our perception of reality.
Act I: The Genesis of Color
Morinaga’s exploration of Umwelt, the environment that surrounds us, takes center stage in Act I. Here, the garments are born from an invisible, clear, and colorless PVC base. It’s a testament to his ingenuity that something so unassuming can give rise to a kaleidoscope of hues.
Through ANVISUAL photochromic technology, transparent “empty” garments metamorphose under ultraviolet lights, becoming vibrant, multicolored silhouettes. These immaterial creations seem to be filled with air, reminiscent of couture bubble wrap. The graphic taped seams, executed in denim, cotton, and Ultrasuede®, add a tactile contrast, tracing the contours of these translucent figures.
Beneath the PVC creations, bodysuits adorned with miniature AZ monogram logos evoke the chromatophore cells of a chameleon’s skin. These bodysuits, crafted from Fairtrade cotton∞ developed with Toyota Tsusho Inc., exemplify Morinaga’s commitment to sustainable fashion.
Completing the looks are INVISIBLE PVC accessories – inflatable earrings, bracelets, balaclavas, and gauntlet-style gloves – alongside a footwear range that includes PVC boots and immaculate white 3D-printed flats. Notably, a line of futuristic Sixties-inspired shield sunglasses designed in collaboration with X8 lends an air of sophistication to the collection.
Act II: The Shifting Canvas of Light
Returning to the Umwelt concept, Morinaga astutely manipulates the lighting environment to challenge our perception of color. Just as the colors of the sky change with weather and environmental factors, so do the hues of his garments. Through hyperspectral color control technology developed by NTT, Morinaga orchestrates a mesmerizing symphony of shifting colors.
As the show lights modulate, colors transition gracefully, illustrating “metamerism” where similar colors appear different under varying light sources. Garments pulsate with soft, luminous energy, revealing striped motifs that shift like the skin of a cephalopod. The juxtaposition of vulnerability and explosive vibrancy creates a visual narrative that is as captivating as it is thought-provoking.
The synthesis of technological innovation and handcraft is a tour de force. From sculptural ensembles with hand-embroidered photochromic PVC to elegantly tailored pantsuits and the mesmerizing dress and jacket twin set with its matching balaclava, every piece is a testament to Morinaga’s mastery. These garments light up like polychromatic kaleidoscopes, adapting to the ever-changing light sources before fading back to their invisible origins, much like the ephemeral nature of existence.
The Cycle of Life: A Poetic Universe
“Invisible” is more than a fashion collection; it is a poetic and otherworldly universe. Morinaga beautifully embodies the philosophical parable of “Existence” and “Nonexistence,” showing how they coexist in everything. The cycle of life comes full circle: colors disappear, mirroring the ultimate fate of all living organisms at the mercy of time. It reveals the existence of the INVISIBLE and the colorless, only to promise a new bloom someday.
Notably, Anrealage’s commitment to sustainability shines through in this collection, with the development of an exclusive environmentally-friendly photochromic PVC. It is a testament to the brand’s dedication to both fashion and the planet.
Kunihiko Morinaga’s “Invisible” collection for Spring Summer 2024 is not merely a fashion statement; it’s a sensory journey through the ethereal realms of light, color, and existence. It challenges our perceptions and invites us to contemplate the ever-changing, intangible beauty that surrounds us. Morinaga’s work stands as a testament to the boundless creativity that can be achieved when fashion becomes art.