Brandon Maxwell Fall Winter 2022-2023. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
IMPORTANT NOTE. For the first time New York Fashion Week started to present Couture collections. As rumors say that new organization which soon will take place will allow to apply separately for Ready-to-Wear and for Couture calendar. Remind you of something? Yep, Ready-to-Wear and Haute Couture fashion weeks in Paris.
Paris was the only holder of this fabulous privilege since 1973 until today. Term “Haute Couture” was born in Paris, originally referred to Englishman Charles Frederick Worth’s work, produced in Paris in the mid-19th century. Haute couture refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion design that is constructed by hand from start to finish. What changed?
Back to 1945 a Haute Couture Syndicate was formed and made certain decisions about who can have this title and use the term Haute Couture in the name of the brand. These conditions were respected until recently. It all started couple of years ago when French Fashion Federation accepted sportswear collections made in China, or designers from USA as invited guest members to present during Haute Couture fashion week. It’s only couple of years but it was enough for Paris to lose its privilege.
World fashion community, luxury houses decided that Paris due to its “diversity” (taken in all wrong ways) is no longer has this prerogative for this title. So international media Vogue, WWD, Elle, you name it, are no longer using term “Haute Couture” in their communication. Just “Couture” became new way to call the designers and their collections who present at Haute Couture fashion week in Paris.
And it goes even further, today designers at New York Fashion week present Couture collections. And this term is very well deserved.
Brandon Maxwell presented fabulous collection dedicated to his mother. It was an ode, absolutely beautiful story, a “Couture story”.
The notes says “A love letter to my Mammaw, an exercise in grief and acceptance, and a channeling of the visual and physical comforts of my childhood.”
See all looks Brandon Maxwell Fall Winter 2022-2023
Photography- Hao Zeng
Backstage Set Design – Marla Weinhoff
Movement Director – Stephen Galloway