“Buffalo Plaid”: The Iconic American Red and Black Shirt – History and the cultural trend behind. Story by Guillaumette Duplaix, Executive Editor of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
In the United States, it’s affectionately known as “flannel shirts,” “red plaid shirts,” or the endearing “lumberjack shirts.” Yet, this emblematic piece of American attire didn’t originate on American soil. Instead, its roots trace back across the Atlantic to the rugged landscapes of Scotland and England. The journey of the Buffalo Plaid shirt is a tapestry woven with threads of history, culture, and an enduring spirit that transcends borders and generations.
Origins in Scotland and England
In the 18th century, the Scottish Highlands were alive with the rhythmic clatter of looms. Scottish weavers spun wool to produce flannel and printed fabrics, giving birth to tartans—the ancestors of the modern checkered shirt. Each Scottish clan boasted its own distinctive pattern, serving as a visual emblem of identity, pride, and unity. These tartans were more than mere fabric; they were a statement of defiance and resilience.
The tartans became potent symbols of opposition to the English crown, especially when they were banned following the Jacobite uprisings. Wearing tartan was an act of rebellion, a heartfelt expression of a people’s unwavering spirit. It’s awe-inspiring to consider how these patterns, steeped in passion and resistance, would eventually weave their way into the very fabric of American culture.
The Woolrich Legacy in America
Although flannel was born in Wales in the 17th century, it became synonymous with American outerwear from the 18th century onwards. European migrants, brimming with hope and dreams of a new life, settled on the East Coast of the United States. They brought with them not just belongings but traditions, weaving their heritage into the burgeoning tapestry of American identity. Flannel became the uniform of outdoor workers—a testament to its durability, warmth, and comfort.
One such migrant was John Rich, the son of a humble wool weaver. Leaving behind the familiar shores of Liverpool, England, Rich embarked on a journey to America in the early 1800s. After initially settling in the bustling city of Philadelphia, his adventurous spirit led him to the serene, rural heart of Pennsylvania. There, beside a gentle stream known as Plum Run, he built his first woolen mill. In 1830, with determination and a vision, he founded the Woolrich brand—a name that would become a beacon of quality and rugged outdoor wear.
Initially, Rich sold wool fabrics, socks, and blankets to local outdoor enthusiasts and their families. His products were more than commodities; they were lifelines during the harsh Pennsylvania winters. The warmth they provided was akin to a comforting embrace amid the biting cold.
The Birth of the Buffalo Check Shirt
It wasn’t long before Woolrich expanded its horizons, venturing into garment production. The word “flannel” today is often used interchangeably with “plaid” or “tartan,” but “flannel” actually refers to the soft, warm fabric itself. In 1850, Woolrich unveiled its first signature shirt: the Wool Buffalo Check Shirt, crafted from luxurious wool flannel.
This shirt wasn’t just clothing; it was a statement. Featuring the now-iconic red and black pattern of large squares formed by intersecting lines, it was both bold and understated. To market this masterpiece, Rich used evocative descriptions like “Made in the mountains” and “Soft, pliable yet tough as iron,” which were lovingly sewn onto labels and featured in heartfelt advertisements.
The secret to the shirt’s unparalleled comfort lay in a finishing process known as “napping.” This technique involved treating the soft twill wool fabric with mechanical brushing, creating a fluffy nap on one or both sides. The result was a garment that felt like a warm hug, embodying both strength and gentleness.
The Legend Behind the Name
But how did the Buffalo Plaid get its evocative name? Legend whispers that the creator of this distinctive Woolrich style owned a herd of buffalo, and thus the pattern was christened in their honor. This iconic red and black design was more than a marketing strategy; it was a homage to the rugged wilderness and the indomitable spirit of the frontier.
Another captivating tale traces the Buffalo Plaid back to Jock McCluskey, a Scottish immigrant and a supposed descendant of the legendary Rob Roy. McCluskey was a charismatic figure, a bridge between cultures. He forged deep friendships with many Native American tribes while working as a trader, offering finished goods in exchange for buffalo hides and other treasures.
Stories tell of how the Native Americans cherished the heavy red and black MacGregor tartan blankets he traded. They believed that the vibrant red color was born from “a sorcerer’s spell, a dye distilled from the spiritual blood and ghostly souls of McCluskey’s prey and enemies,” bestowing upon the blankets a mystical power that brought luck in battle. The linguistic journey of the word “plaid” also adds to the rich tapestry of this history. Unable to pronounce the Scottish Gaelic word for blanket—pladger—they lovingly called them “plaids.”
The Buffalo Plaid fabric eventually found its way to the Northeast, where Woolrich’s mill was located. In 1850, the company began producing Buffalo Plaid shirts, which were embraced with open arms. These shirts became a beloved staple among cowboys, pioneers, farmers, and, of course, the stalwart lumberjacks. The name “Buffalo Plaid” resonated deeply, a nod to both the pattern’s storied origins and its rugged allure.
A Symbol Through the Ages
The checkered shirt has not just survived the passage of time—it has flourished, weaving itself into the very essence of American folklore and identity.
Paul Bunyan, comic 1914
In 1914, the larger-than-life comic character Paul Bunyan emerged as a symbol of the American spirit. This giant lumberjack, wielding his mighty axe and donning a red and black checkered shirt, embodied the ideals of strength, adventure, and the unyielding pursuit of dreams. His tales, though fantastical, echoed the real-life challenges and triumphs of those who tamed the wild frontiers.
From Hollywood Rebels to Music Legends
The Buffalo Plaid shirt transcended folklore, finding its way onto the silver screen and into the heart of American culture. Icons like Marlon Brando immortalized the garment as a symbol of rebellion and counterculture. In his 1954 film On the Waterfront, Brando’s character, draped in a flannel shirt, became a beacon of defiance against societal norms—a visual sonnet to the underdog’s relentless spirit.
In the world of music, the Buffalo Plaid ascended to stardom. The Beach Boys, with their harmonious melodies capturing the soul of a generation, featured the pattern on the cover of their 1963 album Surfin’ U.S.A.. The shirt wasn’t just attire; it was a reflection of a carefree spirit, an ode to youthful exuberance and the endless possibilities of the open road.
Embraced by Subcultures: A Timeless Trend
By the late ’70s, the flannel shirt had been woven into the fabric of diverse youth subcultures. Rockabillies, hippies, skaters, and punks—all found a kinship with the Buffalo Plaid. It became a canvas for expression, adaptability its hallmark. Even if you weren’t an axe-wielding lumberjack residing in a cabin amidst the Adirondacks, the Buffalo Plaid was yours to claim and redefine.
For many, flannel shirts will forever epitomize the ’90s. Bands from the Pacific Northwest, such as Nirvana, Alice in Chains, and Pearl Jam, embraced vintage flannel shirts. These garments offered comfort and a utilitarian aesthetic that harmonized with their raw, grunge sound. It’s nearly impossible to find a photo of Kurt Cobain, the enigmatic icon of grunge, without his trusty flannel shirt—an emblem of authenticity in a world craving sincerity.
In the realm of hip-hop, the oversized silhouettes and sturdy construction of flannel shirts mirrored the hyper-masculine ideals and gritty aesthetics of mainstream rap. West Coast artists like MC Eiht, Snoop Dogg, and the members of N.W.A drew inspiration from the Chicano subculture of Los Angeles, which had woven flannel into its identity since the ’60s. On the East Coast, New York rappers and street visionaries embraced the same brands that outdoor enthusiasts cherished, blending the rugged with the urban in a symphony of style.
Plaid vs. Tartan: A Woven Tale
Many might ponder the difference between plaid and tartan. While all tartans are plaids, not all plaids are tartans. Both patterns feature lines that intersect at right angles, but tartans are distinct in their symmetrical patterns and clan associations.
The word “tartan” refers to fabrics with checkered patterns linked intrinsically to Scottish clans, each design a herald of heritage and honor. Traditionally crafted from pure worsted wool, tartans are the soul of kilts and Highland regalia.
In contrast, “plaid” in the United States has evolved to describe any checkered fabric of multiple colors. It’s a term that embodies inclusivity and adaptation—a pattern without boundaries, free from historical ties to clans or lineages.
The Tartan of Clan MacGregor: The Buffalo Connection
For many Americans, plaid and tartan are threads of the same cloth. The Buffalo Plaid, in particular, shares a lineage with the tartan of Clan MacGregor. The repeating patterns and vibrant hues bridge continents and cultures, a testament to shared human experiences and the universal language of design.
Tartans are meticulously registered with the Scottish Tartan Authority, each one a protected piece of cultural tapestry. The Buffalo Plaid, while echoing these traditional patterns, has carved its own path—a symbol unbound by formal registrations but rich with stories and significance.
For Many Americans, Plaid and Tartan Are Considered the Same
Plaid and tartan—two patterns that weave a tapestry of tradition and style—both feature horizontal and vertical lines intersecting at perfect right angles. In the United States, the term “plaid” is commonly used to describe any multicolored, crisscrossed pattern that brings warmth and character to our clothing and homes.
When Americans mention “tartan,” they often refer to plaids that carry the rich heritage of Scottish clans. This adds a layer of historical depth and cultural significance to the pattern. To put it simply, all tartans are plaids, but not all plaids are tartans.
At the heart of a tartan is the “sett,” a specific, repeating pattern of lines that remains consistent throughout the entire length of the fabric. Usually measuring about 5 to 6 inches, this sett repeats over and over, creating a harmonious design unique to each clan. The sett is essential for distinguishing one tartan from another; it’s a visual representation of identity and lineage passed down through generations.
Plaids differ in that they don’t always feature this consistent sett pattern—and importantly, they don’t need to. Plaids can vary widely in color schemes, line thicknesses, and patterns without adhering to a specific repeat. This flexibility allows plaids to be versatile and universally appealing, free from the constraints of historical or familial associations.
The main difference between tartan and plaid, therefore, lies in their connection to history and identity. A tartan is a plaid imbued with the legacy of a clan, echoing stories of ancestry, tradition, and pride. A plaid is a beautiful pattern without these specific ties—a canvas for creativity and personal expression.
A charming example of plaid is gingham (known as “vichy” in French), which features two interwoven colors forming a simple yet delightful checkered pattern. Gingham isn’t associated with any historical clan or family; instead, it embodies a sense of universal appeal and casual elegance that anyone can enjoy.
Reflecting on these patterns fills one with admiration for their enduring presence in our lives. It’s inspiring to think that such simple designs—lines crossing at right angles—can carry meanings that range from deep cultural significance to everyday comfort and style. Whether donned as a symbol of heritage or simply for its aesthetic charm, plaid and tartan connect us to a rich tapestry of human history and emotion.
So next time you wrap yourself in a cozy plaid blanket or admire the intricate sett of a tartan, remember the stories woven into those intersecting lines. They represent a blend of tradition and individuality—a beautiful reminder of how interconnected we all are through the threads of time and culture.
What Is the Difference Between Tartan and Checks?
At first glance, tartan and check patterns might appear similar—they both feature intersecting horizontal and vertical lines that form squares. However, there’s a subtle yet significant difference that adds depth to their stories.
Checks are patterns composed of crossed horizontal and vertical lines creating uniform squares. They are typically straightforward, featuring two colors in a simple, repeating design. The charm of checks lies in their simplicity and versatility, making them a timeless choice in fashion and design.
Tartan, on the other hand, is a rich tapestry of history and heritage. While it also consists of intersecting horizontal and vertical bands, tartan patterns are more intricate and often incorporate multiple colors. Each tartan has a specific pattern known as a “sett,” a sequence of colors and stripe widths that repeat exactly throughout the fabric. This sett is essential for identifying and distinguishing one tartan from another, each one symbolizing a particular Scottish clan and its lineage.
What Does “Tartan” Mean?
The word “tartan” evokes images of the misty Scottish Highlands, echoing with the sounds of bagpipes and tales of brave clans. Traditionally, tartans were woven by interlacing threads dyed with natural colors derived from local plants and minerals. Weaving these colored threads in both the warp and the weft directions produced the distinctive checkered patterns unique to each clan.
The use of local flora for dyes gave each tartan a unique palette, reflecting the landscape from which it originated. This individuality wasn’t just about aesthetics; it served a practical purpose as well. In times of conflict, the specific colors and patterns of a tartan allowed warriors to distinguish friends from foes on the battlefield. Wearing one’s tartan was a proud declaration of identity, loyalty, and heritage—a visual anthem of belonging.
It’s awe-inspiring to consider how these weavers, with their skilled hands and deep connection to the land, crafted fabrics that were more than just cloth. They wove stories, traditions, and the very essence of their communities into patterns that have endured through the centuries.
Is “Plaid” an American Word?
The term “plaid” has its roots in the Gaelic language, where it originally meant “blanket.” In Scotland, a plaid was a large piece of tartan cloth worn over the shoulder as part of traditional Highland dress—a practical garment providing warmth and a symbol of clan affiliation.
When Scottish immigrants brought their traditions to America, the word “plaid” evolved. In the United States, “plaid” came to refer to the pattern itself rather than the garment. It describes any fabric with a crisscrossed, multicolored pattern of intersecting lines, regardless of its association with a clan.
This linguistic journey from “plaid” meaning a specific type of blanket to its modern American usage as a pattern is a beautiful example of how cultures blend and languages adapt. It’s heartwarming to think that every time we admire a plaid pattern, we’re connecting with a rich tapestry of history that spans oceans and generations.
The Rich Heritage of Tartans
The history of tartans is a profound journey through time. While similar patterns existed globally as far back as 3,000 B.C., it was Scotland that imbued them with deep symbolic meanings. Before the 17th century, tartans began to signify more than aesthetic appeal; they became woven narratives of familial bonds and regional identities.
Contrary to romanticized myths, tartans weren’t battle flags to distinguish friend from foe. Instead, they were cherished garments, with clan members often wearing colored strips on their bonnets or shirts for identification. The true flourish of distinct clan tartans blossomed in the late 1700s, following the repeal of the 1746 Dress Act—a law that had sought to suppress Highland culture after the Jacobite uprisings.
Tartan’s Cultural Odyssey
Tartan has danced through history, gracing the shoulders of royalty and rebels alike. It has been a symbol of pride, a statement of defiance, and at times, a fashion revolution.
After the Battle of Culloden in 1746, the British government’s ban on traditional Highland attire was an attempt to quash a culture’s spirit. Yet, the heart of the Highlands beat on. The repeal of the ban in 1782 marked a renaissance for tartan.
In 1822, King George IV’s visit to Scotland, adorned in Highland dress, was both a unifying gesture and the spark for what critics dubbed “tartanry”—a commercialization that some felt diluted the fabric’s profound heritage. Queen Victoria’s adoration for Scotland further propelled tartan into the limelight, intertwining it with romanticized visions of the Scottish landscape.
The 1970s witnessed tartan’s resurgence as a symbol of rebellion. Punks, led by visionaries like Vivienne Westwood, appropriated tartan as a bold statement against the establishment—a vivid tapestry of political and social commentary.
Fashion maestro Alexander McQueen elevated this narrative. His 1995 “Highland Rape” collection was a haunting homage to Scotland’s tumultuous history, with models draped in tartan traversing a runway scattered with heather. It was a poignant reminder of cultural resilience and the scars of the past.
Categories of Tartans
Tartans, with their rich tapestry of colors and patterns, are more than just woven fabric—they are threads of history that connect generations. They are generally classified into three main categories:
- Clan Tartans
- Universal Tartans
- Restricted Tartans
Clan Tartans
Clan Tartans are the heart and soul of Scottish heritage. Each pattern is a unique emblem of a specific clan, carrying stories of ancestors, battles fought, and traditions upheld through the ages. The intricate designs and carefully chosen colors of a clan tartan are a visual narrative of identity and pride. Wearing a clan tartan is like wrapping oneself in the legacy of those who came before—a heartfelt homage to one’s roots and a symbol of belonging that transcends time.
Universal Tartans
Universal Tartans extend an open invitation to everyone, regardless of lineage or background. These tartans are not tied to any particular clan but are created for all to embrace and enjoy. They embody the spirit of inclusivity and the shared appreciation for the beauty and artistry of tartan patterns. Universal tartans allow anyone to partake in the rich cultural tapestry of Scotland, fostering a sense of unity and admiration for a tradition that resonates across the globe.
Restricted Tartans
Restricted Tartans are cherished with special care, often reserved for specific organizations, institutions, or members of royalty. These tartans come with guidelines or permissions required for their use, preserving their exclusivity and significance. Wearing a restricted tartan is a privilege and an honor, reflecting a deep respect for the traditions and meanings they hold. They remind us of the profound connections and responsibilities that come with certain roles and affiliations—a testament to the enduring power of symbols in our lives.
Understanding Tartan Categories and Their Significance
Understanding these categories can help you choose the right tartan for any occasion—whether you’re honoring a clan heritage, adopting a universal design, or adhering to the specific rules of a restricted tartan.
What Is the Most Popular Tartan?
One of the great things about tartans is that each pattern is unique, and everyone has their own preferences. This means there isn’t just one tartan that stands out above the rest, and many magnificent tartans are rarely seen. However, some are more well-known than others.
Due to its striking design and royal connections, the Royal Stewart tartan is one of the most recognizable tartans in the world. The Royal Stewart is often the tartan that comes to mind when people think of tartan, especially those who are not Scottish.
Another highly recognizable tartan is the MacLeod of Lewis, affectionately known as the “Loud MacLeod” because of its bright yellow and black design.
Worn by royalty and rogues alike, tartan has evoked both traditional and subversive connotations throughout its history—sometimes affirming Scottish identity, other times mocking it.
Traditionally made from wool, this strong and durable fabric was valued as practical everyday clothing by the Highlanders—the predominantly Gaelic clans of northern Scotland. In the mid-18th century, the bold pattern became a symbol of allegiance to Charles Edward Stuart, better known as Bonnie Prince Charlie, who led an army of rebels wearing tartan, known as the Jacobites, in England in 1745.
After the final defeat of the Jacobites at the Battle of Culloden in 1746, traditional Highland clothing—which reflected the rural environment of the region—was banned. The prohibited garments included the phillabeg (small kilt), trews (Scottish trousers), and the great kilt (a type of trench coat).
However, one of the “greatest misunderstandings,” according to Peter MacDonald, historian and Head of Research and Collections at the Scottish Tartans Authority (a Scottish charity registered in 1995), is that tartan itself was “banned outright,” not just certain patterned items. Nevertheless, “because the Highlander was forced to wear Lowland dress”—the more tailored European style of the time—the repeal of the ban in 1782 changed tartan forever.
The Power of the Tartan Brand
In 1822, King George IV attempted to showcase the unity of Scotland by appearing in full Highland dress during his first visit to the country since the Battle of Culloden. This gesture was meant to heal old wounds, but it inadvertently planted the seeds of what critics would later derisively call “tartanry”—an excessive and kitschy use of tartan that projected an overly romanticized image of Scotland.
Twenty years after King George’s well-intentioned yet criticized display, Queen Victoria elevated tartan to new heights with the purchase of Balmoral Castle. Her Scottish residence became a beloved getaway, and her fondness for tartan infused the fabric with royal endorsement. Scotland began to be marketed through tartan, which was mass-produced and spread throughout the British Empire by the army. The Highland regiments, adorned in tartan, became symbols of Scottish identity assimilated into British military tradition.
PAINTING BY DAVID WILKIE, NIDAY PICTURE LIBRARY / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
However, this commercialization of tartan did not go unchallenged. In the 1970s, youth culture seized upon tartan’s symbolic power to subvert its traditional connotations. Punks, including bands like the Sex Pistols influenced by designer Vivienne Westwood, adopted tartan as a rebellious statement. By wearing tartan in unconventional ways, they offered a bold critique of the establishment, effectively using the fabric as a “middle finger” to authority. Tartan transformed once again—this time from a symbol of national identity to one of political dissent and counterculture.
Fashion designer Alexander McQueen took the political significance of tartan to new heights by consciously repoliticizing the fabric. In his provocative 1995 runway show titled “Highland Rape,” some models donned the MacQueen clan tartan while walking down a catwalk strewn with heather. This powerful imagery was designed to symbolize the destruction of the people, culture, and lands of the Scottish Highlands following the Battle of Culloden.
Under McQueen’s creative vision, tartan rebelled against the commercialization and romanticized clichés—often referred to as “tartanry”—that had diluted its historical significance. By confronting audiences with unsettling scenes and a title that evoked painful history, McQueen aimed to highlight the brutalities inflicted upon Highland communities during and after the 18th century. His work reignited conversations about cultural identity, heritage, and the often-overlooked darker chapters of Scottish history.
Costume “Highland Rape” automne/hiver 1995–96 (veste et jupe non portées ensemble sur le podium)
Veste en tartan de laine McQueen avec manches en feutre de laine verte ; jupe en tartan de laine McQueen
De la collection d’Isabella Blow, courtoisie de l’honorable Daphne Guinness
Photographie © Sølve Sundsbø / Art + Commerce
Tartan Today: A Living Legacy
Like a river carving new paths while honoring its source, tartan continues to evolve. In an era increasingly conscious of environmental impact, tartan adapts, embracing sustainable practices while retaining its timeless allure.
Its influence knows no borders. Tartan has found a fervent embrace in Japan, melding seamlessly with urban fashion and high-end design. This global love affair is a testament to tartan’s universal appeal—a fabric that tells stories, stirs emotions, and connects souls across the world.
When we speak of patterns that have withstood the test of time, the Buffalo Check stands proudly among them. Its bold, balanced grid of large squares is more than a design; it’s a narrative of tradition and style.
The Timeless History and Creation of the Buffalo Check Pattern: A Story of Tradition and Style
When it comes to classic patterns, few can boast a heritage as rich and enduring as the Buffalo Check. This iconic print, characterized by its bold and balanced grid of large, two-colored squares, has become a symbol of rustic charm and timeless fashion.
Origins of the Buffalo Check Pattern
The history of the Buffalo Check pattern traces back to the Indigenous peoples of North America. Various tribes, including the Cree and the Anishinaabe, are credited with creating this distinctive motif. They utilized natural dyes and weaving techniques to craft textiles featuring the Buffalo Check pattern, initially intended for utilitarian purposes such as blankets and clothing. The simple and bold design allowed for easy identification and repair of any damages—a practical necessity in harsh and unforgiving environments.
The Arrival of European Influence
The Buffalo Check pattern gained greater prominence when European settlers arrived in North America in the 17th century. Upon encountering Indigenous communities, these settlers discovered the beauty and functionality of Buffalo Check textiles. The pattern quickly became popular among European Americans, leading to its integration into their own fashion and lifestyle.
The Rise of Lumberjack Chic
In the 19th century, the Buffalo Check pattern truly came into its own with the rise of the lumber industry. Lumberjacks, who toiled in the dense forests of North America, adopted Buffalo Check shirts as a staple of their uniform. The pattern’s rugged and durable nature made it the ideal choice for the demanding conditions of their work. This association with the outdoors and wilderness cemented the Buffalo Check pattern as an enduring symbol of robust masculinity and the pioneering American spirit.
This print became an integral part of the American aesthetic, symbolizing strength, self-reliance, and an unbreakable connection to the land.
Transcending Its Utilitarian Origins
The Buffalo Check pattern eventually transcended its utilitarian beginnings to become a staple in the worlds of fashion and design. Designers have incorporated this timeless motif into clothing, accessories, and home décor. The versatility of the Buffalo Check allows it to be adapted to different colors and scales, making it a favored choice for those seeking to infuse a touch of rustic charm into their lives.
A Testament to Classic Design and Cultural Exchange
The history of the Buffalo Check pattern testifies to the enduring appeal of classic design and the power of cultural exchange. What began as a practical and utilitarian pattern among Indigenous communities has become an iconic symbol of American culture and style. The Buffalo Check continues to be a beloved and versatile print, cherished for its rich history and timeless allure. Whether you choose to wear a Buffalo Check shirt or incorporate this motif into your home décor, you are embracing a piece of history and a lasting symbol of rustic elegance.
In the end, the Buffalo Plaid is more than fabric and pattern; it’s a celebration of history, a tribute to the indomitable spirit of those who came before us, and a comforting embrace that spans time and place. It’s an enduring symbol, inviting us all to be part of its rich, unfolding narrative.
