Chanel Dakar Métiers d’art 2022-23. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Chanel / Malick Bodian with Ibrahim Kamara / Rossy de Palma.
I understand cultural exchange, I understand profound appreciation of the synergy of literature, dance and fashion. What I don’t understand is the concept of “TOO MUCH”, race privilege, competition taken on an absolutely unhealthy level.
Chanel is Chanel, a French luxury house. Even playing with the cultural heritage of another country I wouldn’t expect to receive an invitation to watch the movie in what looks like typical African wrapping, only made of silk and not wax. Inside there was a photobook of the images with black models from 70s, 80s until today, and a collier with two pendants African continent and Chanel logo. What does it all have to do with Chanel? Nothing.
Ok, let’s try to keep it open minded. Cultural exchange, exploration, synergy… Only all these things don’t really end up. Dakar is a very poor city, where poverty and human drama take primary place. Bringing luxury brand there and showing the collection to the dressed-up corrupted government, and selected African, European and Asian rich public is insensitive to say the least. Let us hope that watching people dying of thirst and famine on the streets was not part of their entertainment.
From the looks of it, the public and the participants, singers and dancers had fun. Apart from this show what is it for? What exactly did Chanel want to show this time as a Métiers d’art collection started by Karl Lagerfeld to show the most expensive and exquisite pieces? African dance… What does it have to do with Chanel? Nothing.
And something else comes to mind – “UNHEALTHY COMPETITION” would be the right word for it. There’s no secret that Dior and Louis Vuitton luxury houses (both belong to the LVMH group) are the primary competition for Chanel. For 3 years now Dior has used an 8 pointed star with Earth in the middle as a decorative motif for clothing, home etc, decorated facades of flagship stores all over the world with this symbol. Chanel decorated their boutique with the moon. Louis Vuitton some time ago engaged Virgil Abloh, African American designer and DJ from Harlem, as an artistic director for the men line of Louis Vuitton. And it was a success. After Virgil Abloh passed away Louis Vuitton announced the brand as a cultural company bringing all talents and sources together. So this is an attempt of Chanel to do the same, and go this far?
Maybe far enough to get all advantages from Dakar Youth Olympic Games 2026?…. Just a total guess. “Curiouser and curiouser!”
I just leave it here…
See all looks Here
Press-release Chanel Dakar Métiers d’art 2022-23
The city of Dakar was chosen as the location for the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR collection, following meetings over the past three years between Virginie Viard and friends of the House who have either lived there, are carrying out artistic projects there, or who are drawn to the city’s creative effervescence.
An influential artistic capital on the international scene, particularly in fields dear to CHANEL, such as fashion, cinema, dance, literature, contemporary art and music, Dakar marks the beginning of an ongoing exchange between the House and Senegal.
“That initial promise, to see dance as a means to travel, has come true,” says Dimitri Chamblas on his choreographic collaboration with Franco-Senegalese dancer and choreographer Germaine Acogny and her École des Sables for the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR collection. Germaine Acogny is an iconic figure in contemporary African dance, and her school is part of the fabric of local culture. “I give this freedom to young people and it’s this dialogue that interests me. (…) I founded this school twenty-three years ago and now I’m letting these young people fight to keep it going,” she tells CHANEL.
Beyond a pas de deux between these two artists, this collaboration is part of a vast cultural programme that celebrates fields dear to CHANEL, including cinema, dance and fashion, and is scheduled around the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR show. The event in Dakar is a story of creative encounters and the starting point of an ongoing exchange between the House and Senegal.
“The country has an incredible energy and a lot of talent,” says director Ladj Ly, the founder of the Kourtrajmé film schools in Dakar and Montfermeil, whose students documented the preparation ahead of the presentation of the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR show. Ladj Ly and House ambassador Pharrell Williams, who has been part of the conversation around this project since the very beginning, share and reveal a common desire: to create a society in which it is possible for young talents to gain more support and recognition.
Building connections and sharing their creative visions, this dialogue is part of a vast cultural programme that celebrates fields dear to CHANEL, including cinema, fashion and music, and taking place around the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR show. This event in Dakar is a story of creative encounters and the starting point of an ongoing exchange between the House and Senegal.
On the occasion of the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR show, and as he celebrates the 20th anniversary of his career, the Senegalese musician NIX reflects on the local creative landscape and his influences: “We have a culture that is very open to the world, we have been influenced by many things, which I see as a richness, and this generates an overflowing creativity today.”
NIX’s participation belongs to a vast cultural programme that celebrates artistic fields dear to CHANEL, including cinema, music and fashion, and taking place around the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR show.
Presenting a collection in Dakar is a story of creative encounters and the starting point of an ongoing exchange between the House and Senegal.
“Literature itself is an encounter, a journey into another creative world, and that is exactly what this project feels like,” says House ambassador Charlotte Casiraghi.
On the occasion of the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR show, and under the impetus of Virginie Viard, Charlotte Casiraghi dedicates an episode of the Rendez-vous littéraires rue Cambon [Literary Rendezvous at rue Cambon] to Marie NDiaye, who won the 2009 Prix Goncourt for her novel “Three Strong Women”.
The two women are joined by the Senegalese actress Rokhaya Niang who shares their passion for literature.
This special Rendez-vous littéraire is part of a vast cultural programme celebrating all the fields dear to the House, including cinema, literature and fashion, and taking place around the show.
The creative genesis of the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR show was documented by Kourtrajmé filmmakers, who captured the energy of the rehearsals with Germaine Acogny’s École des Sables dancers and choreographer Dimitri Chamblas, with Virginie Viard in attendance.
This episode is the first in a four-part documentary series by the students of the Kourtrajmé film schools, which were founded by Ladj Ly in Dakar and Montfermeil. The series reveals the lead up to the presentation of the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR collection, and takes us from the bustling streets of Paris to Dakar.
The choice of Dakar to present the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR collection is the result of meetings over the past three years between Virginie Viard and choreographers, directors, musicians and writers, all together with friends of the House, who are the plural inspiration behind this journey.
Crafted by the CHANEL ateliers and the artisans of 𝘭𝘦19M, between Paris and Aubervilliers, the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR collection is traversed by a seventies spirit, dear to Virginie Viard.
Since 2002, the CHANEL Métiers d’art collection has paid tribute to fashion craftsmanship and savoir-faire. These collections have been presented in different locations all over the world.
The vibrant details of the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR collection animate the streets of Paris, as emblematic codes of the House – camellias, intertwined pearls, abundant jewelled buttons and dazzling sequins – are reimagined by Virginie Viard in a creative dialogue with the artisans of CHANEL’s Maisons d’art.
The warm colour palette and detailed craftsmanship of the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR collection play with floral motifs, multicoloured tweeds and geometric forms, alongside sequins and sparkling pendants.
Embroideries, sequins, hats, feathers and passion at work… The second episode of the documentary series by Kourtrajmé opens the doors of the Maisons d’art at 𝑙𝑒19M in Paris/Aubervilliers. To enter inside the new building dedicated to savoir-faire is to witness the virtuoso skills of the Artistic Directors and artisans and their devotion to details as they craft the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR collection.
The Maisons d’art artistic directors also share their experiences of collaborating with Virginie Viard and presenting a collection in Dakar for the first time.
Directed by the students from the Kourtrajmé film schools, which were founded by Ladj Ly in Dakar and Montfermeil, this is the second episode in a four-part series that documents the story behind the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR collection and show.
The choice of Dakar to present the 2022/23 Métiers d’art CHANEL – DAKAR collection is the result of meetings over the past three years between Virginie Viard and choreographers, directors, musicians and writers, all together with friends of the House, who are the plural inspiration behind this journey.
