Chanel Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025: A Tribute to the Past, But Where’s the Future? Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Chanel.

Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture show delivered a collection that paid homage to the house’s storied legacy. Inspired by Karl Lagerfeld’s iconic designs from 1995-1997, it showcased Chanel’s signature elegance and timeless craftsmanship. However, while the collection was undeniably beautiful, it felt more like a gentle nod to the archives than a bold step into the future. Haute Couture is meant to inspire awe, to challenge conventions, and to redefine what fashion can be. This time, Chanel seemed content to stay within the comfort zone, opting for safety over creativity.

The Weight of Heritage

Chanel’s press release confidently declared its 110-year legacy in Haute Couture, emphasizing its unparalleled savoir-faire and timeless allure. The collection unfolded like a journey through a day—sunny yellows and lilacs gave way to twilight blues and classic blacks. Standout pieces included a lilac pleated dress, a painted and embroidered white-and-black tweed suit, and a pink-orange coat layered over violet jacquard. Each piece was exquisitely crafted, exuding the refinement that Chanel is known for.

The collection’s color palette mirrored a full day—from sunlit yellows and lilacs to twilight blues and deep blacks. A lilac pleated dress, a white-and-black tweed suit with painted embellishments, and a pink-orange coat layered over violet jacquard offered a diverse yet cohesive narrative. These were undeniably beautiful garments, but their beauty felt almost too safe—polished to perfection but lacking the provocative allure of something truly modern.

Chanel’s choice to embrace the classics might have been a nod to its heritage, but in doing so, the collection risked feeling out of step with contemporary fashion. Classic never dies, true—but Haute Couture should transcend time, not merely replay it.

Haute Couture, at its best, is not just about precision or beauty—it’s about creativity. It’s about pushing the boundaries of fashion and exploring uncharted territory. This collection, while polished and cohesive, felt like it was looking backward, not forward. Drawing inspiration from Lagerfeld’s work should have been an opportunity to reinterpret and reinvent, but instead, it felt more like a reissue of greatest hits.

The Challenge of Creativity in Haute Couture

Haute Couture demands risk, audacity, and vision. Chanel has the resources, the ateliers, and the talent to lead the charge, but this collection played it safe. While the house celebrated its heritage, it missed the opportunity to surprise or challenge the audience. There’s a delicate balance between honoring tradition and stifling innovation, and this season leaned heavily toward the former.

The vibrant colors and classic silhouettes were lovely, yes, but were they transformative? The collection felt restrained, almost as if the weight of Chanel’s legacy had become a limitation rather than an inspiration. Creativity is the lifeblood of Haute Couture, and without it, even the most exquisitely crafted pieces risk becoming static, timeless but not timely.

Setting the Record Straight

One misstep that didn’t go unnoticed was Chanel’s claim to be the oldest Haute Couture house in activity since 1915. While Chanel’s couture heritage is undeniable, it is worth clarifying that the oldest Haute Couture house was founded by Charles Frederick Worth in 1858 at 7 rue de la Paix in Paris. Though no longer active, Worth’s legacy laid the foundation for the industry as we know it today. For Chanel to overlook this detail felt like a rare lapse in its usually impeccable communication.

A Beautiful Collection, But Not Quite Haute Couture

It’s important to recognize the immense craftsmanship that went into this collection. Chanel’s ateliers are among the best in the world, and every stitch, every embellishment spoke to their unparalleled skill. But skill alone is not enough. Haute Couture is a celebration of creativity, an exploration of what’s possible in fashion. This collection, while elegant, lacked the spark of daring that sets Haute Couture apart from simply beautiful clothes.

Classic designs endure, but Haute Couture should also dream. Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection, though undoubtedly luxurious, felt more like a memory than a vision—a reminder of what has been rather than an invitation to imagine what could be.

What’s Next for Chanel?

As Chanel marks 110 years of Haute Couture, the house’s legacy remains unshaken. But with the fashion world constantly evolving, legacy alone is not enough. Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection is a testament to its mastery of the classic, but it also raises the question: where does Chanel go from here? Will it embrace the boldness that Haute Couture demands, or will it continue to find safety in the familiar?

Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture collection is undeniably beautiful, a testament to the house’s enduring legacy and the artisans’ exceptional skill. Yet, it falls short of the daring, boundary-pushing spirit that defines Haute Couture at its best. Replaying Karl Lagerfeld’s archives should have been an opportunity to have fun, to innovate, and to surprise. Instead, it felt like a cautious stroll down memory lane—a celebration of the past, but not quite a leap into the future.

As Chanel celebrates 110 years of Haute Couture, it’s clear that its legacy is secure. But as fashion moves forward, the question lingers: how will Chanel adapt? Because even as classics endure, Haute Couture should always strive to captivate—and surprise—us with what’s next.

Because while timeless elegance is always in style, creativity is what keeps fashion alive. And in the world of Haute Couture, Chanel should always lead, not follow.

See All Looks Chanel Haute Couture Spring Summer 2025