Dior Men Spring Summer 2024 “From new look to new wave”. Story by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Dior.
Kim Jones, the artistic director of Dior Men, presented a stunning fifth-anniversary collection that paid tribute to the rich heritage of the fashion house while infusing it with a sense of modernity and subversion. Jones masterfully blended influences from different eras and predecessors of Dior, resulting in a captivating collage of styles and textures that bridged the gap between tradition and innovation.
The collection showcased a meticulous attention to detail and craftsmanship, highlighting Dior’s commitment to haute couture. Silhouettes reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent and embroideries inspired by Gianfranco Ferré gracefully merged with the iconic cannage motif, creating a visual feast for the eyes. This juxtaposition of influences brought together the feminine and the masculine, the salon and the street, and the classic new look with the edginess of the new wave.
Jones expertly merged British tailoring traditions with the finesse of haute couture, blurring the lines between menswear and womenswear. The collection revealed the roots of womenswear fabrications in the realm of men’s fashion, creating a harmonious fusion of materials and techniques. The result was a refreshing take on modern menswear, where luxury intertwined effortlessly with utility and practicality.
The collection played with contrasts, seamlessly blending the formal with the casual and infusing pop excess into individual garments. Classic menswear staples like the harrington jacket, polo shirts, crew necks, and cardigans were elevated to extraordinary heights through the use of symbolic techniques that have become synonymous with Dior. Tweeds, embroideries, and the iconic cannage pattern breathed new life into these familiar items, showcasing the brand’s ability to transform the ordinary into the extraordinary.
Yves Saint Laurent’s influence was particularly evident in the impeccable tailoring showcased throughout the collection. The voluminous shapes, vents, pleats, and necklines from his 1959 collections were effortlessly translated into relaxed, masculine suits, stylish summer ensembles, and sweeping coats. Footwear drew inspiration from the iconic Lady Dior bag of 1995, with heavy-soled loafers and slides featuring a new circular logo, reminiscent of the new wave era. The collection also featured an array of bags in various shapes, colors, and textures, ranging from eye-catching fluorescent saddles to elegant cognac cannage satchels, highlighting the versatility of Dior’s accessories.
Millinery maestro Stephen Jones reinterpreted fashion’s new wave beanies, incorporating a twist by using exquisite velvet flowers known as “ronghua.” These delicate floral embellishments, produced in China since the Tang Dynasty, added a touch of elegance and heritage to the collection. Collaborating closely with the Dior ateliers, ronghua masters adapted their traditional techniques to match the colors and vision of the collection, celebrating the timeless beauty of these intricate floral designs.
In summary, Dior Men Spring Summer 2024, under the creative direction of Kim Jones, presented a collection that seamlessly blended the past with the present, paying homage to the fashion house’s iconic heritage while infusing it with a contemporary and subversive spirit. The meticulous craftsmanship, attention to detail, and fusion of diverse influences resulted in a collection that exuded both luxury and modernity, leaving a lasting impression on the world of menswear.