Dior Spring Summer 2025 “Amazon woman, or upscale gym kit”. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Dior.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest collection for Dior Spring Summer 2025 is a bold departure from the house’s historic elegance. Scratch that—this collection is less a departure and more of a full-on sprint away from Dior’s legacy, straight into a realm that can only be described as… sportswear. If you were expecting the effortless glamour of Dior’s past, think again. The house that once brought us the New Look has now brought us, well, what could generously be called an upscale gym kit.
Chiuri has taken inspiration from the archives—specifically Christian Dior’s Amazon dress from Fall Winter 1951-1952—meant to evoke the strength and autonomy of a modern woman. Unfortunately, instead of modern femininity, what we got feels more like an identity crisis. This “reinterpretation” results in a collection where high fashion is reduced to jerseys, bomber jackets, and sports shirts—hardly the stuff of Parisian couture dreams. Dior, known for its silhouettes that embrace and elevate the female form, seems to have swapped them out for pieces better suited for a gym than the runway.
It’s hard to reconcile the description with the actual pieces on display. A collection of stark black and white outfits—checks, stripes, and elongated Miss Dior logos—paired with bomber jackets in shades of fire-engine red, somehow manages to say “I’m ready for spin class,” more than “I am timeless elegance.” The occasional metallic fringe or butterfly embroidery seems to be tacked on as an afterthought, as though someone suddenly remembered, “Wait, this is Dior, right?”
Shirts, black skirts, and pants make their obligatory appearance, but they’re so nondescript that they could easily pass for corporate casual. If Chiuri was aiming to reinvent the wheel here, she might want to rethink the wheel itself—because what we’re left with feels more like a collection that should be relegated to a capsule release in a trendy athleisure line, not the main ready-to-wear collection of one of the world’s most iconic fashion houses.
Ah yes, and there’s the sport influence—because nothing screams couture quite like bombers with trainers. With the Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games, Chiuri makes the argument that the relationship between body and sport is what we’re all really craving in our wardrobes. The inclusion of SAGG Napoli, an artist and archer, further cements this curious pivot to athleticism. Her phrase, “May the building of a strong mind and a strong body be the greatest work I have ever made,” looms large over the runway, but let’s be honest—this feels more like an ad for an athletic brand than Dior.
Dior’s Spring Summer 2025 collection would’ve been an excellent fit if it were released under a sporty sub-label—perhaps a Dior x Nike collab? But as a mainline Dior ready-to-wear collection, this misses the mark. The house known for grace, femininity, and timeless beauty has been reimagined as something that could easily fit into a weekend sportswear capsule. The question remains: is this what Dior’s legacy has come to? No wonder why this year the sales dropped dramatically.
Perhaps it’s time to redefine what “ready-to-wear” really means—because these days, it looks a lot like something you’d wear to run errands or hit the gym. Maybe next season we’ll get a couture yoga mat to go with it.
See All Looks Dior Spring Summer 2025
