Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
It was another fabulous show. Yes, Elie Saab is a Red Carpet designer. And the gowns he presents every season are created to praise femininity and grace. Elie Saab admires a woman, every woman, in her power, in her profound existence. That’s what makes his gowns one of the wonders of the world. There’s no known actress, or singer, or any woman who wouldn’t want to wear his dress at the award ceremony or her wedding day. Elie….. the name of the man who creates it for every woman.
Press-release of the story
This is an ode to the Mediterranean, a landscape that has produced an evolution of beauty, heritage, and charm; a landscape that has always provided simple solace and joy to ELIE SAAB, who continuously finds a trove of muse and vision in its unfailing abundance. With its wild bougainvillea that bloom vivacity wherever they climb and its deep blue sea that glistens as it flirts with luminous rays of golden sun, this idyllic picturesque is a taste of EDEN ON EARTH.
Each gown is an intricate world of its own, an assemblage of different places, flavors and forms inspired by the many histories, cultures and terrains that live together in this wonderland of pulsating plenty.
A bright spectrum of colors splash across a panorama of silhouettes that take us on a marvelous journey. Gradients of capacious feathered ballgowns capture the magic of the in between moments of dusk and dawn, as the sun tints the skyline in celestial blues and sea green. Shimmery sequins and crystals embellish the tulle of night, guiding the exploration across a vast geography of plunging necklines and mermaid tails. Layers of fuchsia, blush and chartreuse taffeta explode into large off-the-shoulder rose petals and peony bouquets that exaggerate organic feminine curves.
Each passage of this escapade through geographies and time are made unique through generous textures and distinct organic forms. Strong structured shoulders like colonnades of ancient temples, plummet into billowing trains of ivory and greige. Sleeves continue into graceful gloves embroidered in a sun-kissed, sparkling sea of aquas and mints usher us forward, while tassels and fringe swish and sway to myths of the Greeks and Romans. Threads of silk are braided into intricate patterns that move across the body in geometrical arabesque-like curves. As the final destination draws near, the divine pearl white bride, enrapturing in feathers, floats in on a mist of organza and tulle billowing from below.
This collection is a voyage through an earthly garden of heavenly delight. The terrestrial paradise, EDEN ON EARTH, is a reminder that we are not only always surrounded by divinity, we are created of it.