Fendi Fall Winter 2024-2025 “The Palette of Italian Elegance”. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Fendi.

Today Fendi unveiled its Fall Winter 2024-2025 collection, marking a new chapter in the narrative of contemporary fashion. Today’s showcase was a masterclass in balancing ultimate simplicity with unadulterated elegance, leaving the fashion world in awe of its understated sophistication and innovative designs.

“I was looking at 1984 in the FENDI archives. The sketches reminded me of London during that period: the Blitz Kids, the New Romantics, the adoption of workwear, aristocratic style, Japanese style…” says Kim Jones, Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear. “It was a point when British subcultures and styles became global and absorbed global influences. Yet still with a British elegance in ease and not giving a damn what anybody else thinks, something that chimes with Roman style. FENDI has a background in utility. And the way the Fendi family dresses, it’s really with an eye on that. I remember when I first met Silvia Venturini Fendi, she was wearing a very chic utilitarian suit – almost a Safari suit. That fundamentally shaped my view of what FENDI is: it is how a woman dresses that has something substantial to do. And she can have fun while doing it.”

The Fendi Fall Winter 2024-2025 collection stands as a testament to the fashion house’s enduring legacy of merging traditional craftsmanship with contemporary innovation. Under the creative guidance of Kim Jones, the collection embodies a rich tapestry of contrasts—utilitarian yet extravagant, simple yet theatrical, embodying both salon elegance and street sensibility, blending town sophistication with country charm. This amalgamation not only pays homage to Fendi’s storied Roman heritage but also introduces a blasé British twist, creating a unique cross-cultural dialogue that redefines luxury fashion.

At its core, the collection is an ode to the active woman, one who values doing over being, who seeks clothing that empowers and expresses rather than merely adorns. Jones’s vision for this season marries London’s famed nonchalance with Roman liberality, where utility is not just a design element but a bold statement of intent. Luxury, therefore, is reimagined as a vehicle for comfort and confidence, enabling self-expression through a harmonious blend of practicality and playfulness.

A Theatrical Backdrop

Set against a theatrical backdrop, reminiscent of a grandiose stage with curtains in rich hues of brown, red, and grey, the Fendi runway transformed into a realm where fashion meets art. This dramatic setting not only heightened the allure of each piece but also emphasized the collection’s deep connection to artistic expression and luxury.

The Palette of Elegance

The color scheme of the collection painted a vivid picture of fall with high boots in an array of colors – blue, brown, and black – crafting a foundation of versatility and elegance. This footwear choice, both daring and refined, set the tone for the narrative that unfolded on the runway.

Shearlings and leathers are particularly noteworthy, showcasing Fendi’s unparalleled craftsmanship through a variety of techniques. High-shine waxed finishes, the innovative Agugliato needle-punched process, and intricate intarsia work create new fabrications that offer both protection and pleasure, emphasizing tactility and comfort.

The collection also nods to Fendi’s rich history, with the Selleria motif playing a central role as a link between past and present, especially significant as the house approaches its centenary in 2025. This motif finds expression in leather riding boots, whimsical accessories like the Chupa Chups® lollipop holder, and in the avant-garde jewellery designs by Delfina Delettrez Fendi, where metal thread hardware interplays with leather in statement pieces.

Light, Airy, and Polka-dotted

Adding a touch of whimsy to the collection, light pink polka dots danced on transparent dresses and skirts, creating a playful yet sophisticated contrast with the more somber tones of the collection. This element of lightness and transparency introduced an ethereal quality, showcasing Fendi’s ability to blend different textures and motifs seamlessly.

The Highlight: Knitted Boleros

The pièce de résistance of the collection was undoubtedly the knitted violet and brown closed boleros, adorning well-shaped dresses and coats with an exquisite touch. These pieces highlighted the collection’s focus on silhouette and form, showcasing the craftsmanship and attention to detail that Fendi is renowned for. The boleros added a layer of complexity and warmth, perfectly encapsulating the essence of the fall and winter seasons.

The collection starts with a strong foundation in tailoring, reinterpreting traditional silhouettes with a feminine touch that favors rounded forms and sinuous lines. The materials employed—rich, compact wools—speak to the precision and graphic nature of Fendi’s design ethos. Coats, reminiscent of robes, are layered and belted casually, introducing a relaxed elegance that bridges the gap between formal and informal wear.

Knitwear takes on dual personas: sleek, silk-ribbed layers that hug the body like a second skin and more rustic, traditional British knits that evoke a homespun aesthetic. Dresses combine practical elegance with a ‘tailored flou’ approach, juxtaposing toughness with the ethereal transparency of tulle and organza, adorned with Roman statuary prints or disruptive embroidery patterns.

A Nod to Renaissance Art

Adding an almost mystical element to the collection, some pieces featured almost invisible faces of statues, weaving a thread of Renaissance beauty through the modern designs. This subtle incorporation of classic art highlights Fendi’s dedication to merging historical richness with contemporary fashion, creating pieces that are both timeless and of the moment.

Statues that are featured: Roman art, Statua femminile ammantata – Roman art, Testa colossale di divinità, Courtesy of Galleria Borghese. Immacolata Concezione, Courtesy of Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi, Pii Stabilimenti della Francia a Roma e a Loreto.

Silvia Venturini Fendi, in her role overseeing accessories and menswear, introduces bags that redefine Fendi’s iconic styles. The collection features deconstructed and rejuvenated versions of the Peekaboo, Baguette, and By The Way bags, alongside the introduction of new models like the Simply FENDI satchel and the Roll bag. These pieces prioritize tactility and utility, presented in sumptuous leathers and rich, natural colors, embodying the collection’s ethos of functional luxury.

Fendi Fall Winter 2024-2025 collection is a celebration of individuality, encouraging women to find their unique expression within the multifaceted world of Fendi. It’s a collection that stands at the crossroads of tradition and subversion, of the past and the future, offering a dynamic wardrobe for the modern woman who is as diverse and complex as the garments she chooses to wear. Fendi Fall Winter 2024-2025 collection stands as a testament to the power of simplicity paired with elegance. Through its careful selection of colors, innovative designs, and homage to the arts, Fendi continues to redefine luxury fashion, proving once again that true elegance lies in the details. As the curtains close on today’s show in Milan, the fashion world is left anticipating how these masterpieces will influence the trends of the season and beyond.

See All Looks Fendi Fall Winter 2024-2025