Fendi Menswear Spring Summer 2024 “Art of Making / Making of Art”. Story by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Fendi.
The FENDI Men’s Spring Summer 2024 collection presented at the new FENDI Factory in Capannuccia outside Florence is a testament to the brand’s commitment to innovation and craftsmanship. Designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, the collection pays homage to the historical connection between FENDI and Florence, where the art of leather craftsmanship was learned by Silvia Venturini Fendi’s grandmother nearly a century ago.
The show took place in the light-filled atrium of the FENDI Factory, creating a metafictional reflection on the creative process. It beautifully captured the dance between tradition and innovation, seamlessly blending the industrial and the handmade. The collection explores the delicate balance between nature and modernity, with designs that trick the eye while honoring the skill of the artisan.
The silhouette of the season embraces utilitarian elegance, celebrating the archetype of the ‘corporate artisan.’ Workwear-inspired patch pockets in cotton and leather are cleverly incorporated throughout the collection, revealing the tools of the trade. The apron motif appears as halter neck collared shirts and skirts of varying lengths paired with tailored pants and city shorts. Proportions play a significant role, ranging from shrunken ribbed body tanks to high-waisted, zip-off suit trousers and knee-length dress shirts with buttoned sleeves.
Drawing inspiration from the Tuscan landscape, the color palette showcases mineral shades, including burnt umber, terracotta, deep indigo, sage, limestone, and chalk. Fabrics such as light summer wools and nettle fiber knitwear are dyed with vegetal pigments like acacia, juniper, henna, and poppy. The collection features an array of raw materials, from woven paper textiles with a dry touch to fine linen with ‘pattern-print’ designs and unbleached cotton drill. The sensuality of FF scarf silks, plongé leather, and Selleria-stitch nubuck leather adds richness and depth. Notably, FF ‘tweed’ is ingeniously woven into coated cotton and linen shirts and a featherweight knit shearling coat, creating a stunning effect replicated on graphic silk separates and indigo fil coupé FF denim. Trompe l’oeil effects further celebrate the artisan’s prowess, with tonal FF jacquards, cotton floral embroidery, and contrast tack-stitch motifs for evening wear.
The accessories collection for Spring Summer 2024 echoes the concept of the “corporate artisan” with playful and tactile expressions of craftsmanship. From supple woven baskets and knotted jacquard “lunch” bags to raffia-embroidered weekenders and structured FF luggage in tool prints, the bags perfectly complement the collection. New Baguette and Peekaboo styles showcase vegetal-dyed textiles, debossed leather scales, and trompe l’oeil pattern-print graphics. The minimalist satchel FENDI Chiodo, crafted from grained leather, joins the swivel backpack FENDI Chiodo, featuring circular FENDI Shadowhinge details and tonal leather straps. The FENDI Lab clog, with a swivel heel strap and bio-based rubber sole adorned with the FF logo, serves as the season’s signature shoe.
Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the Artistic Director of Jewelry, adds a touch of irreverence to the collection with locker key-shaped pendants, ‘Made in Fendi’ dog-tags, ‘StaFF Only’ pins, and 1925 hoop earrings, all inspired by the everyday elements of the FENDI Factory.
The standout element of the accessories collection is the FENDI KENGO KUMA project, which establishes an artistic dialogue between Italy and Japan. This collaboration sees Kengo Kuma’s architectural principles applied to iconic FENDI pieces such as the Peekaboo, Baguette Soft Trunk, and FENDI Flow sneakers. The use of traditional waranshipaper, woven bamboo, birch bark, and Tuscan olivewood showcases a fusion of cultures and craftsmanship.
The FENDI Men’s Spring Summer 2024 runway show was a dual presentation, first unveiled to the artisans of the FENDI Factory before being showcased to the press, guests, and friends of the House. The digital experience, conceived and directed by Italian artist Nico Vascellari, flawlessly transitioned between both audiences. The bespoke show soundtrack, produced by Nico Vascellari and Rocco Rampino, incorporated ambient sounds sampled from the FENDI Factory and its surrounding environment, further enhancing the immersive nature of the presentation.
In conclusion, the FENDI Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection at the FENDI Factory impressively merges the brand’s heritage with forward-thinking design. Silvia Venturini Fendi’s vision creates a harmonious blend of craftsmanship, nature, and innovation. From the carefully crafted garments to the thoughtfully designed accessories, every aspect of the collection reflects FENDI’s dedication to excellence and its status as a leading fashion house.
See all Looks Fendi Menswear Spring Summer 2024
