Fendi Spring Summer 2019 Milan Fashion Week. “The name of the show is GP — giant pockets,” said Karl Lagerfeld. “GP. Sounds good, no?” Separately, Silvia Venturini Fendi described the collection as “very real clothes for a busy woman, very functional, practical.” High-function built with limited materials — not exactly the threshold to rapt anticipation.
Bags of bags, pockets upon pockets, and plenty of logos: Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld were in utility mode at Fendi today. There were exaggerated external tan leather pockets on a transparent vinyl raincoat worn by Adwoa Aboah: that started it.
Then there were puffy poacher pockets on silk blouses and a utility jacket and brown leather jackets, pockets that had their own smaller pockets on top of them, and cargo pants and parkas with multiple pockets. Buckled in there, too, was the option of a tool kit belt with pockets hanging off it.
Conversely, those masterful Fendi bags were on audacious display, spectacular in their utilitarian guise: next-generation, enlarged Baguettes and new Peekaboos, some with multiple, external pockets for phone and change. But not all was big, as Venturini Fendi also worked those miniature pouches as belt bags. Sometimes, the small touches speak volumes.
There was plenty to take in beyond bags, too: parrot prints picked out from a carpet Lagerfeld had chosen; corset-cummerbund dresses; romantic sheer dresses embroidered with flowers. But the takeaway from this show was the rebirth of the house It bag. The swing toward ’90s and 2000s taste has a lot more swing in it yet.