Harris Reed Spring Summer 2025 “ENCORE” – Creative Landscape of London Fashion. Story by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Harris Reed / Suleika Mueller.

Harris Reed’s Spring Summer 2025 collection, aptly named “ENCORE,” is a testament to the designer’s flair for blending the past with the present, bringing forgotten fabrics back into the spotlight with a fresh, unapologetically dramatic twist. Known for his narrative-driven approach, Reed shifted gears this season, allowing the materials themselves—sourced from across Europe’s car boots and specialist online sellers—to drive the story.

In a quest that took his small team to the farthest corners of the continent, Reed unearthed treasures such as an Art Nouveau lace appliqué drape, a 19th-century cherub-motif golden silk damask that once adorned a headboard, and confectionery-hued striped vintage duchesse satin curtain panels. This treasure hunt for vintage interiors textiles became the heart of “ENCORE,” a departure from Reed’s usual inspirations, which have included Shakespearean costumes, debutante balls, and paper dolls. This season, Reed’s deep dive into historical materials was spurred by a personal itch to explore and by the experience of decorating his new London home.

Reed’s signature dramatic silhouettes are ever-present in “ENCORE,” reimagined through a lens of reclaimed luxury. One standout piece—a fishtail bias-cut skirt and jacket ensemble—features a structured lapel that dramatically swoops around the body like a headpiece. This striking outfit was meticulously crafted from three 200-year-old Point de Venise lace tablecloths and shawls, expertly color-matched and crocheted together.

Another showstopper, a white silk organza mini-dress, is adorned with black 3D flowers fashioned from old haberdashery fabrics. Its dramatic hip panniers, reminiscent of chair arms, showcase Reed’s ability to recontextualize historical forms with a touch of modernity. These creations aren’t just garments; they’re reimagined works of art that celebrate the storied past of the materials themselves.

The collection’s genesis was further inspired by Reed’s collaboration with wallcovering specialist Fromental for his Fall 2024 collection, where he used scraps of hand-painted silk wallpaper. This experience, coupled with the designer’s immersion in the decorative arts of his new home, created a seamless narrative thread running through “ENCORE.” Reed also delved into the archives of the V&A Museum, where he studied the construction of corsets under the guidance of white-gloved conservators—a nod to the architectural elements in his latest designs, like winged corsets and crinolines.

For the showcase, Reed opted against a traditional runway show, as he did last season. Instead, he designed a theatrical caged set that echoed the themes of confinement and liberation woven throughout the collection. This choice resonated with the collection’s ethos of embracing individuality and breaking boundaries, while also paying homage to the historical silhouettes that influenced his work.

Despite the dreamlike allure of Reed’s designs, the collection also reflects the current challenges faced by the London fashion industry, particularly in light of the recent struggles of luxury retailer Matchesfashion. Yet, Reed’s resilience shines through as he continues to push creative boundaries while navigating the financial quagmire affecting many designers today.

Reflecting on “ENCORE,” Reed shared his deep personal connection to the collection: “Hands down the most proud I have ever been of a collection thus far. This entire collection was made from found materials over the past six months—vintage tablecloths, silk bedspreads, headboard fabric, and curtains. Giving new life to hundred-year-old fabrics and giving them a second life.”

Reed’s heartfelt gratitude extended to his team and collaborators, including The Textile Trunk, for helping source the magical materials that brought his vision to life. “For me, this is the best representation of the Harris Reed brand and what we stand for,” he said.

Harris Reed’s “ENCORE” is not just a collection; it is a love letter to the art of storytelling through fabric, a celebration of individuality, and a bold statement on the power of repurposing. By breathing new life into antique textiles, Reed reminds us that fashion is not just about the future—it’s also a homage to the past, and above all, an ode to the enduring power of creativity.

See All Looks Harris Reed Spring Summer 2025