Hermès Fall Winter 2025-2026 “Leather dandy”. Story by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Hermès.
A Feminine Power Play in Leather
Nadège Vanhée has done it again. On International Women’s Day, no less, she sent a powerful message at Hermès: one of sharp precision, sensual control, and an unflinching embrace of female strength. Titled “Leather Dandy,” her Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection was a masterclass in restrained subversion—lean silhouettes, equestrian codes, and the house’s unparalleled leather craftsmanship, all subtly charged with an undercurrent of fetishistic edge.
By look six, it was clear—this was Vanhée’s best collection in a decade. A cropped quilted jacket unzipped over a black turtleneck, paired with belted, high-waisted narrow pants in glossy black glove-leather—an “equestrian biker” moment that distilled the entire show’s ethos. Hermès, the house of ultra-refined leather, had never felt this assertive, this sharply distilled. The bourgeois ease of past collections was edged out, making way for something leaner, hotter, and more deliberate.
The New Code of Leather
Vanhée understands the nuances of Hermès’ heritage—its horsey DNA, its collectors’ obsessions, and the fetishistic allure that runs beneath its luxurious precision. Here, she tapped into all of it, amplifying the details that make leather so evocative.
Take the deep-V dresses, tailored from a mix of leather and felt, perforated with brogue-tooling. They were cinched with cord loops and tassels reminiscent of lace-up shoes, an almost imperceptible nod to the world of bondage without ever tipping into vulgarity. It was control, not chaos—an eroticism defined by restraint.
Her outerwear, always a point of strength, had a highly tactile intelligence. A strong-shouldered brown leather spencer jacket featured a saddle-bag-inspired peplum, cinched with a chrome buckle. A riding coat, zipped all the way up the back, revealed a quilted leather lining—then appeared again as a separate coat in its own right. Every detail spoke of transformation, the duality of control and release.
Accessories: The New Desirables
The accessories—always a whisper of what’s to come for Hermès’ impossibly patient waitlists—were just as precise.
- Tiny bags were tucked effortlessly under arms, serving their function as sleek, ergonomic extensions of the body.
- A single plum-mauvish saddle bag stole the spotlight, finished with an oversized silver horsebit fastening—an object of desire so pure it barely needed marketing.
- Footwear was equally sharp: flat winkle-picker riding boots and high-heeled brogues balanced power with practicality, underscoring the collection’s duality.
The End of the Oversized Era?
Beyond its impeccable execution, “Leather Dandy” carried a broader message: a shift in silhouette. Vanhée’s suiting and coats were incredibly fitted—but not constrictive. This wasn’t about restrictive tailoring, nor was it about drowning in oversized excess. Instead, she found a middle ground of precision, signaling a departure from the era of baggy, exaggerated proportions.
The Feminine Frisson
What made this collection electrifying was the feeling in the room. The kind of female-powered confidence that doesn’t seek approval, but demands presence. The days of playing nice are over—fashion’s feminists are no longer apologizing for their authority.
And if this collection is any indication, neither is Hermès.
See All Looks Hermès Fall Winter 2025-2026
