Issey Miyake King of Pleats

















Issey Miyake King of Pleats died August 5th 2022. Story by RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Issey Miyake, Japanese designer, died August 5th 2022. He was and remains the King of Pleats. He became known for his origami-like high-technological clothing.

Issey Miyake Spring Summer 1995, MAAS collection
Issey Miyake Spring Summer 1995, MAAS collection

From the late 1980s he began to experiment with new methods of pleats. He invented new way to see and use them: the garments are cut and sewn first, then layers of paper were applied to them, and then put into a heat press, where they are pleated.

Issey Miyake 1994-1995 - Flying Saucer dresses
Issey Miyake 1994-1995 – Flying Saucer dresses
Issey Miyake origami dresses and how to pleat them
Issey Miyake origami dresses and how to pleat them
Issey Miyake origami dresses and how to pleat them
Issey Miyake origami dresses and how to pleat them
Issey Miyake shows how to pleat his origami dress
Issey Miyake shows how to pleat his origami dress

In 1990s he became loved by all creative crowd in New York and Paris. He showed his collections during the fashion weeks.

Issy Miyake 1993 show Paris by Gamma-Rapho Getty Images, Bao+Bao bag commercial
Issy Miyake 1993 show Paris by Gamma-Rapho Getty Images, Bao+Bao bag commercial

Passion for artisanal technologies, innovative technologies became distinguished identity of the designer.

Issey Miyake always created creative dialogues with artists, dancers, photographers. One of them who captured incredible vision of the designer was photographer Irving Penn.

Issey Miyake by Irving Penn
Issey Miyake by Irving Penn

Irving Penn, ‘Issey Miyake,’ New York, 1988. Gelatin silver print. © The Irving Penn Foundation

Issey Miyake Spring Summer 1994 by Irving Penn New York, 1988
Issey Miyake Spring Summer 1994 by Irving Penn New York, 1988

Isamu Noguchi, “Foreword,” in ‘Issey Miyake: Photographs by Irving Penn,’ Nicholas Callaway, ed. (New York: New York Graphic Society Books; Boston: Little, Brown and Co. in association with Callaway Editions, 1988).

Issey Miyake Spring Summer 1994 by Irving Penn
Issey Miyake Spring Summer 1994 by Irving Penn
Issey Miyake Spring Summer 1994 by Irving Penn New York, 1988
Issey Miyake Spring Summer 1994 by Irving Penn New York, 1988
Issey Miyake Spring Summer 1994 by Irving Penn New York, 1988
Issey Miyake Spring Summer 1994 by Irving Penn New York, 1988

The art of Issey Miyake was visual, and not speakable formed into dialogue “Beyond Time and Space”.

Apple CEO Steve Jobs had Miyake make him hundreds of the black turtlenecks, which he always paired with Levi’s 501 jeans.

Issey Miyake and Steve Jobs
Issey Miyake and Steve Jobs

His art and unique revolutionary vision in fashion has everlasting impact on fashion of 21st century.



Posted from Runway Magazine, Paris, France.