RUNWAY MAGAZINE présente les trésors de l’INPI – des innovations dans la mode. L’Institut national de la propriété industrielle (INPI) examine et délivre les titres de propriété industrielle (brevets, marques, dessins et modèles) en France. Créé en 1951 sous la tutelle du ministère de l’Économie et des Finances, il est l’héritier des institutions qui l’ont précédé depuis la fin du 18e siècle. A ce titre, l’INPI est garant de la gestion de ces archives publiques et est ainsi devenu l’une des mémoires de l’innovation en France. Il veille sur un riche patrimoine, constitué par l’intégralité des brevets depuis 1791, des marques depuis 1857 et des dessins et modèles depuis 1910 : près de 7,5 millions de documents, soit 145 kilomètres linéaires précieusement conservés. Fruits de générations d’inventeurs, d’ingénieurs, d’industriels, de créateurs ou encore d’artistes, ces archives sont d’un intérêt historique et documentaire unique et représentent une source iconographique encore méconnue.
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Inventions – INPI Treasures
It was by exploring INPI archives that we found traces of the innovations of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is an artist and designer, who’s bringing all innovative technics from art and design to fashion. This is not just a synergy, this is complete colorful chemistry and innovation.
Jean-Charles is the one of the first ones who brought pop-art into fashion. His famous Teddy Bear coat was as an existentialist dare, and some sort of “Fashion is dead, and everything is possible” promotion. Andy Warhol, Vivienne Westwood, Katty Perry, Rihanna, Lady Gaga… wore his innovations. He was also the first one who brought Disney characters on the clothes in 2010. Today this idea became a trend.
The key to understand Jean-Charles de Castelbajac inventions lies in the first vision of a child. What first child is able to recognize: primary colors and simple geometrical forms. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is a creating child, playing with all objects as toys, produced by culture. And being a child he created amazing fashion innovations 20-30 years ahead of time.
INPI, the French patent & trademark office, archives keep several treasures.
Drawings and models moved by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
For Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, the various industrial property titles spread throughout his career. First, there are the deposits of designs, the oldest dating from the mid-1980s. For example, this box in the form of a book cover deposited on December 8, 1985 (Model n ° 856067, INPI Archives ). Thus, as for many creators, industrial property titles represent protection with a view to commercial exploitation but also a certain brand image that they intend to imprint on a lasting basis.
In addition to this advertising and commercial aspect, the deposits of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac are a reflection of his influences and his universe. We thus find references to childhood such as this character deposited in 1985, reminiscent of his Félix le Chat dress:
The models of objects that he also deposited in the 1990s are very inspired by a colorful and playful universe. This is the case for example with this model of Sugar bowl with handles filed in 1994 (Model n ° 940062, INPI Archives).
Usual and decorative furniture also interests the designer and several deposits testify to his universe:
The patents of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
In addition to designs, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac also holds three patents, one for a garment, the other two for decorative objects of watchmaking and lighting.
By refusing the conformism of Haute Couture, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac imprints a lasting identity. By diverting the use of textile materials, it offers various collections in mop, sponge or oilcloth, recyclable materials. In 1998, he filed a patent for a piece of clothing: an adhesive, disposable bra, bustier or camisole.
In addition to his activities as a stylist, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is also a designer of furniture and accessories. The INPI thus retains two other patents filed in 1979: a watch dial adorned with linear lines and a multi-leg lighting device, a true design object.
Alongside his colorful and very playful Pop-art-inspired creations, his industrial property titles show a multifaceted inventiveness, embodied in furniture, decoration and fashion. The heritage preserved by the INPI thus makes it possible to show other aspects of the creative imagination of this innovative artist!