Lanvin Fall Winter 2022-2023. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
Bruno Sialelli, who designs for Lanvin today, decided to come back to the Lanvin brand heritage, identity and DNA. Decision is one thing, capacity is another. Lanvin new collection looks not art-deco-ish, it looks very dark. The models chosen to present collection, not at all look like ladies from the beginning of XXth century. Back in the days people considered this time as a “Golden Era”, fabulous inventions, light, electricity, light, cars, trains, Charleston dance, and cheerful clothes.
Bruno Sialelli went for velvet, and couple of deco details. Well, it’s not enough to reach great heritage of this house. Something to notice – men shoes. These are very funky hybrids between classic and sporty. This is quiet interesting finding and invention of the house for this season.
The illusion of fashion, the finesse of craftsmanship. The Lanvin Fall/Winter 2022 collection by Bruno Sialelli celebrates the paradoxes and contradictions of fashion as well as the games of contrasts that animated Jeanne Lanvin’s work. Between opacity and transparency, rigor and softness, nostalgia and modernism, it illustrates the universal gaze carried by a definitely Parisian house. This collection reflects Lanvin’s heritage and, like any reflection, it is an illusion that diverts, reinvents and reinterprets Jeanne Lanvin’s codes in a contemporary way.
Cinema is illusion: smoke and mirrors, chiaroscuro and fantasy. The glamor of Hollywood was seen as the first augmented reality, a means of escape. Inspired by the cinematographic boom of the interwar period, an age of creative prowess and prosperity for the Lanvin house, the collection is revealed in a short film rich in reflections and echoes, darkness and light definitely influenced by film noir.
The silhouettes are narrow , the shoulders marked by a daring arched approach that can be found in the coats and jumpsuits, but also in the supple dresses which underline the opposition between neatness and fluidity . A deep sense of finesse, rigor and sophistication inspired by the heritage of the house prevails, all genres combined.
The presentation of men’s suits is timelessly chic. The latter are accompanied by a scarf or a shirt with tie and the sneakers become dress shoes. Women’s garments are precision cut and lavishly embroidered. They are worn with high-heeled Mary-Janes or calfskin sandals.
The collection is inspired by the Art Deco style which, although separated from ancient Egypt by thousands of years, is fundamentally shaped by it. The 1920s were deeply marked by the graphic nature of Egyptian art and architecture : the future born from the past. A perfect reminder of this period, the jewels evoke an Egyptian atmosphere with the abstract shapes of foliage and drops of water , not unlike the bottle of “ Arpège ” eau de parfum. Even the stylized “ Cat ” bag is an unexpected nod to Egypt. We also salute the continued collaboration with Judith Leiberwhich gives birth to a minaudière in the shape of a precious tulip in flower adorned with jewels.
In a more abstract way, other garments are encrusted with fragments of history: a wool gazar back with fine princess seams, a velvet yoke drawing a waist evocative of another garment. Unlined, bare interiors celebrate the magnificence of tailoring. Sewing craftsmanship and image craftsmanship.
Jeanne Lanvin herself has traced the history of fashion and reworked dresses borrowing 18th century volumes for the modern woman. Illusion again, these dresses which sported light shapes seemed to float in the air. The Fall-Winter 2022 collection revisits this silhouette and this ideology: fragile dresses in silk lace bubble around the bodies, voluminous and voluptuous, weightless, to recall Lanvin’s signature flower , the daisy ., sometimes drawn in caviar pearls. Other dresses are illusory, suspended by tulle, levitating around the body in silk and velvet drapes drawn from original Lanvin pieces dating back the house’s history to 1889, but glued together, becoming unpublished.
Illusions and mirages of the past , projections and predictions of a future. All are anchored here in the unmistakable language and heritage of a Parisian fashion house.