Jeanne Lanvin 1925 vs Lanvin Spring Summer 2021. Shanghai Fashion Show. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
It is known that Jeanne Lanvin is one of the most important figures in modern fashion. Can you imagine a woman, who was born in XIX century and started her own business? It is almost impossible. Jeanne Lanvin was the first designer who actually founded FIRST FASHION HOUSE in the world. Even more impressive Jeanne Lanvin founded FIRST Haute Couture house in France. And she was the first one who proposed to shorten hemline of the women skirt in Victorian time to liberate the moves. Call even revolutionary….
And even more impressive – the business part and organization. Everyone knows shopping catalogs… which eventually grew into shopping online – buying clothes without seeing them, only on photo, buying based on the size. No one knows how it all started. Well, Jeanne Lanvin started modern way to buy clothes by picture and known size – shopping online. She was the first tailor, who published in national news papers the posts with several looks, instructions how to measure, and phone number, so ladies can order from all provinces in France her modern Parisian looks by phone and have delivered ordered garments by post, only seeing picture in newspaper and guide how to do the measures.
For a long time, let’s say last 40 years, House Lanvin has lost any link or relation to this great designer. The heritage of Jeanne Lanvin is stored in archives, and shown ones in decade to the public at the expo in museum. That’s all about it.
Lanvin house long ago lost title of Haute Couture, continuing to produce leather goods and keeping style of 60s for the past 60 years. Although trough these years Lanvin fashion house kept the loyal buyers to the certain extend. Last 2 generations are no longer interested in these looks, and specially if there’s so many new designers on the market, proposing creative innovations and contemporary garments, including sustainability concept, which is NOT in Lanvin house development or creative plan.
So this Spring Summer 2021 collection Lanvin presented not during Paris Fashion Week but in Shanghai designed for Chinese market, with hope that Chinese young girls, who are so attracted by French luxury goods and style, would certainly be the new clients of this house. And for the first time Lanvin house decided to remake a famous dress created by Jeanne Lanvin in 1925. Well, the embroideries and tailoring are far from the garment created by great designer.
So this “remastery” could certainly mean 2 things: one – the garments created 100 years ago by a great designer are still in style and still innovative and contemporary today, and second – a house wiped out of all talents or creativity for decades is still fitting on great heritage of the founder but can never stand up to it…. not even close. But let’s hope for the best, that one day Lanvin house will found another great designer who can bring former glory and success to the house, the way as it started in XIX century.