Leonard Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week. Ready-to-Wear. Reinterpreting this founding element of the history of the House, Christine Phung transposes it to the present: the richness of the Leonard heritage is revealed through a fresh and current look which draws its energy and its modernity from the high-tech current that l ‘found today in the Far East. If the cuts evoke kimonos, the heritage becomes contemporary when enhanced by the purity of a line, a skilful mixture of colors, or patterned bands and prints that inject vitality into the collection.
An exotic orchid on a dark background was the starting point of the collection, and is seen in different outfits: on a graphic shirt, or high-waisted flared pants with patch pockets at the front – a wink in the 70s. “What is fascinating with a flower is the emptiness that surrounds it, its relationship with print and the way it gives life to the silhouette,” notes the designer. The Maison explores the delicate balance between patterns and solid colors, using fitted cuts to highlight the prints, for example on a red quilted sportswear set, combining a short Chinese-inspired jacket and cuffed pants with a rooster feather print.
Starting from a silk square, a new architecture with asymmetrical lines is created. The pleating techniques breathe new life into the prints. The flowers of the archives reappear newly deconstructed, cut and recomposed on jackets and dresses. This winter, the line is enriched with a series of quilted puffers of different lengths, dotted with flowers and bands, while a rain cape in lacquered organza completes an offer that is both sporty and feminine. The signature of animal prints appears on casual pieces in a nod to streetwear, and on evening looks.
Between tailoring and lightness, cuts and silhouettes bring structure to the blur through puffed sleeves, for example. Experimentation with futuristic materials, such as technical taffeta and neoprene, highlights the modernity of the collection. A new tailor brings together unexpected elements in a hybrid silhouette, which oscillates between neo-bourgeoisie and streetwear. The fluid pieces evoke the Leonard wardrobe, in particular the dresses in silk jersey print.