Loewe Fall Winter 2022-2023 Paris Fashion Week. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
Jonathan Andersen presented another very artistic collection during this Paris Fashion Week. He became some sort of Jeff Koons (“Balloon Dog” sculptor) of fashion. There’s probably not reference intended but this is the only one comes to mind.
All attention in this collection is dedicated to the shoes, bags of course. Plastic forms of balloons inserted in the dresses, became a shoes heels – became a main leitmotiv trough the collection.
The collection was suppose to be bring out provocative, even sexual femininity. But funny enough this collection brings childhood dreams or fantasies of Jonathan Andersen: balloons, big lips, bonbons, toy cars (2 dresses), bows. In short child is playing art – that’s what this collection is about.
“Touch is stimulated: leather, felt, latex, knit, silk and resin. Stripped bare to a rudimentary level. Touch is stimulated. Thrilling textures of leather, felt, latex, tweed, knit, 3D printed fiber, silk and resin abound. Chaos rebuilt through items that are not defeatist,” – we read in press-release.
The showspace installation for this runway show was created by artist Anthea Hamilton. Originally a homage to David Bowie’s Heroes music video and the Colossus of Rhodes, the reproduction of Aquarius (2010) comprises a 7m tall digital banner and scaffold support through which guests were entering the show space, staged at Tennis Club de Paris.