Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2024 Shanghai “A Voyage Through Time”. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Louis Vuitton.
In an extraordinary fusion of fashion and art, Nicolas Ghesquière presented his Pre-Fall 2024 Collection at the Long Museum West Bund in Shanghai, marking a significant milestone in its creative journey. This season’s show, titled the “Women’s Voyager Show,” was not just a fashion presentation but an invitation to an odyssey of artistic expression, seamlessly blending the rich heritage of Louis Vuitton with the vibrant, youthful energy of China.
The collaboration with Chinese artist Sun Yitian for this collection serves as a bridge between Louis Vuitton’s deep-rooted design language and contemporary artistic expressions. This approach, however, is not without historical precedent. The use of characters and figurative elements in high fashion can be traced back to the 1960s in the United States with Andy Warhol, who pioneered the concept of merging pop art with fashion. This trend saw further development in the 1980s and 1990s in Europe with designers like Franco Moschino in Italy and Jean Charles de Castelbajac in France, who infused their designs with animated characters like Mickey Mouse and Donald Duck, bringing a playful and irreverent spirit to ready-to-wear.
This season’s offerings from Louis Vuitton, unveiled in the cultural heart of Shanghai, reflect a careful balance of old and new. The collection does not claim to break new ground; rather, it acknowledges its lineage through deliberate aesthetic choices. Contrasts in silhouette and texture—short versus long, refinement against audacity—are presented with a measured hand. The use of opposing prints and the juxtaposition of classicism with whimsical elements are done in a way that respects the past while still appealing to the modern sensibilities of China’s youth.
As ever, accessories remain a cornerstone of Louis Vuitton’s visual language. The show saw the return of classic pieces such as the Petite Malle, the Twist, and the OnTheGo, each revisited to align subtly with the overarching theme of the collection. The introduction of the Slim Trunk, in particular, pays homage to Louis Vuitton’s heritage as a trunk maker, while adapting its historical significance to the present day.
Hosting the Pre-Fall 2024 collection at the Long Museum, known for its extensive collection of both traditional and contemporary art, underscores the brand’s ongoing dialogue between heritage and modernity and what women wear daily. This venue choice reflects a conscious alignment with spaces that resonate with cultural and artistic significance, mirroring the collection’s own integration of historical fashion elements with current artistic trends.
Louis Vuitton’s Pre-Fall 2024 collection serves as a reflective pause, a moment to look back as well as forward, weaving the threads of artistic collaboration into the fabric of its enduring legacy.
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