Maison Margiela Haute Couture Fall Winter 2021-2022. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
Maison Margiela “Artisanal” 2021 Collection – A Folk Horror Tale – a film based on an original concept by John Galliano and directed by Olivier Dahan.
A Mysteriously troubling struggle with the energies, forces of nature is the story told by John Galliano and French Oscar-winning director-producer Olivier Dahan. “The effect of the weather, the sea, the moon, the elements, started to play on my psychology.” As he put it in his introduction to the film, “it’s about the fast-wash of anxiety, the power of nature—and when faced with that, how helpless we are.”
The chosen setting is a Pirate bay, some characters reminding of Galliano himself, the story is about wild prizing of life, death and despair, and then rebirth. And all story lied in the fabrics, and the way they were treated, with enzyme washes and stone-washing to remove color, shrunk and wringed with a technique he calls “Essorage.”
Presenting this collection during Haute Couture is another rebel way to show Galliano’s understanding of “Recycling Couture“. Traditional understanding of production of Haute Couture is an opposite of Galliano’s way of treating the fabrics, how clothing can be transformed from vintage and found materials in the modern world. He described how garments were graded up six or 12 times, and then shrunk to fit. How linings of skirts and suits were turned inside out and converted into dresses. How he treated the denim jackets and loden coats and a XIXth century woman’s corset, revealing their original colors in the seams when the washing and wringing was done.
Galliano’s collection for Maison Margiela Fall Winter 2021-2022 is another romantic story, another way to see the garments, it’s “Recycling Couture“.