Max Mara Resort 2027 Long Museum in Shanghai by Ian Griffiths. Story by Kate Granger, Editor of Runway Magazine. Photo / Video Courtesy: Max Mara.
75 Years of the Universal Garment
Seventy-five years of an empire built on the ultimate symbol of quiet, sophisticated luxury—the camel coat—cannot be celebrated with a dusty march down memory lane. For its 75th anniversary, Max Mara bypassed the traditional, stuffy retrospectives and looked directly into the future, staging its spectacular Resort 2027 fashion show and launching “The Max!” exhibition at the iconic Long Museum in Shanghai.
By placing Italian soft tailoring within the monumental, raw concrete architecture of Shanghai’s premier brutalist space, creative director Ian Griffiths staged an intellectual dialogue between structure and fluid warmth.





“The Max!” — Deconstructing the Living Archive
From June 17th to 28th, 2026, the cavernous spaces of the Long Museum open their doors to an archival experience unlike any other. Curated by the brilliant Olivier Saillard, “The Max!” rejects the typical museum format where garments sit frozen behind glass like relics. Instead, the exhibition space invites visitors to explore and discover Max Mara’s rich heritage in an unstructured, dynamic, and completely alive way.
This is far more than a simple exhibition; it is an immersive journey into the heart of a brand that, for over seven decades, has successfully turned the profound sentiment of creation into a universal garment. Saillard’s curation proves that Max Mara’s history isn’t static—it evolves, breathes, and constantly redefines the modern wardrobe.
Concrete and Cashmere: The Architectural Contrast
On the runway, Griffiths leaned heavily into this architectural juxtaposition. The collection strips away extraneous noise to focus on pure, sweeping lines that echo the museum’s massive concrete vaults. It is an exploration of how a garment can command space while remaining completely effortless.
The dialogue between structural geometry and liquid movement was immediate. The opening sequence established a pristine palette: an immaculate, structured cream coat that caught the light with a subtle, shimmering glaze, cinched sharply at the waist with a bold, wide white belt. This was swiftly followed by a masterclass in optical graphic design—most notably a sharp, black-and-white diamond-patterned dress styled with dramatic leather opera gloves that added a touch of mid-century cinematic mystery to an otherwise ultra-modern silhouette.
Griffiths also played with the ease of knitwear, subverting classic leisure pieces into high-fashion statements. A relaxed, horizontal-striped sweater dress was rendered entirely in shimmering sequins, effortlessly balancing casual comfort with evening-ready glamour.
The Graphic Evolution of the Wardrobe
As the collection progressed, the aesthetic turned wonderfully graphic and experimental. Earthy tones met vibrant, unexpected injections of color that felt entirely fresh for the historic house.
In one of the collection’s most playful moments, a classic Breton-striped knit was paired with dazzling, sun-yellow sequined shorts and framed by oversized, dramatic plush sleeves that extended past the fingertips. This bold color story continued with utilitarian separates rewritten for the global metropolitan woman—exemplified by a striking saffron-yellow utility jacket anchored by a deep burgundy wrap belt.
Subtle cross-cultural geometry was integrated with signature Max Mara restraint, seen in a meticulous, high-collar patterned tunic and a perfectly draped, belted striped cardigan wrap that exuded an air of intellectual travel.
The Crimson Finale
The crescendo of the evening belonged to Max Mara’s undisputed crown jewel: the unparalleled mastery of plush, tactile outerwear. Against the industrial gray backdrop of the Long Museum, these deep, saturated textures felt almost painterly.
The house introduced a dreamy, romantic soft pink enveloping jacket, layered flawlessly over a shimmering, sequined slip dress that caught the ambient light with every step. Then, the mood shifted into high-octane drama with a sudden explosion of rich, deep crimson.
First came a high-volume, high-neck plush jacket paired with a gleaming red sequined column skirt—a brilliant study in balancing matte texture with high-shine reflection. Finally, the definitive punctuation mark of the night: a sweeping, floor-length crimson teddy coat worn over a matching, light-catching red jumpsuit. It was a breathtaking visual statement, confirming that after 75 years of defining elegance, Max Mara’s universal garment is securely oriented toward the future.
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