Moncler Spring Summer 2019 Milan Fashion Week. Moncler has taken a leap into a whole new strategy of engaging with collaborations, giving individual designers the possibilities to express themselves in the frame of Moncler. For this season all presentations of Moncler were set in the form of multiple performances presented in digital work played on the walls of a cavernous Milan warehouse gallery. For the Spring Summer 2019 Moncler showed 7 designers. We are going to show 5 designers : 1952, Simone Rocha, Craig Green, Noir Kei Ninomiya, and Fragment by Hiroshi Fujiwara.
Moncler blew up the fashion imagination of the spectators and showed absolutely different look on the brand since 1952. The Moncler 1952 collection comprised a more accessible urban wardrobe for men and women. It is a let’s say classic line of ready-to-wear line. The Moncler classic, generic line – backup for featured artistic experimentation.
Ninomiya’s Noir concept involved giant 3-D, computer-generated figures of twirling women in sequences that felt akin to witnessing the head-down birth of cyborgs. The digital collaboration with Setsuya Kurotaki ingeniously magnified the petaled, silver grommet-linked, knitted, and flower-shaped mesh techniques the designer had wrought out of standard Moncler black padded nylon and its logo template.
Simone Rocha, Irish designer, chose a gardening theme, reasoning that her Spring Moncler collection should logically center on protection from villains and the rain. There were flower jewels embedded in vinyl coats; ruffle-edged dresses; 3-D anemone and daisy embroideries; floppy-brimmed hats tied on with tulle scarves; and Wellington boots with embroider anglaise cut-outs. There were also gardening tools and gloves inserted with lace and flower-shaped sunglasses to complete this collection of the quirky Victorian symbolism. Her film directed by Tyler Mitchell was about the girls on the scorching English summer in Wisley garden reminded the Virgin Suicides or a cult surviving on the edge of extinction, frisson of horror in fashion. Rocha stated that she is very much appreciated Moncler’s opportunity to participate in this art experiment: “I had to make sure people felt the emotion, that the girls felt very displaced, like their identity is their work. It could be Down South; Arizona, even.”
Craig Green’s installation was a set of giant video projections of the mechanical contraptions, kite like he loves to construct. This time they were twirling, jumping, bouncing, windmilling sculptural frameworks. “It’s fun working with them because they have so much technical ability,” said Green. “The brief was to try color, so we went for the most celebratory ones we could think of, looking at windsurfing sails, kites, and flags. Also, it’s summer—I burn terribly—so I thought of what could protect you: tents, hoods . . . .” Green’s design language and his ability to fuse concept with art is truly unique.
Fragment by Hiroshi Fujiwara, is a Japanese hero of streetwear. His collection, printed with serial numbers and logos, was a practical fusion of American generics and European variety of jeans and jackets. Its title was World Tour, but Fujiwara’s fantasy animation also had an apocalyptic undertow, with a hero eventually escaping earth to float in space.