Nina Ricci Fall Winter 2023-2024 Paris Fashion Week. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Nina Ricci.

Who killed Nina Ricci 2018-2021

Nina Ricci is a fashion house , which has a long and beautiful history… until 2018 when Charlotte Tasset was appointed as a new CEO. She decided to rebrand, and start from scratch. So she made all efforts to erase the identity and history of the house. She appointed a young couple, Dutch designers Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, who had no idea about the house and its history. And minutes of the house started counting. Usually it takes 3-4 years to completely erase the house. Making expensive compilations, resembling ordinary student work, didn’t bring to the house any new interest. 

In April 2021 historic Nina Ricci flagship store at 39 Avenue Montaigne, across the street from Dior, was closed and its windows were covered with stickers bearing the Paco Rabanne brand. This Nina Ricci boutique has been known since the 1950s. For more than 70 years this wonderful store welcomed numerous clients of the house, including my mother and me. Well… like new CEO of Nina Ricci Charlotte Tasset said to me “We don’t need any of this”…. and brought this house down.

It took 4 years for Charlotte Tasset to destroy the Nina Ricci house. And in December 2021 she was appointed as CEO of Maje. This time she made it faster. It took her only 1 year. By the end of 2022 Maje announced bankruptcy and closed their stores. 

By the beginning of 2022 Nina Ricci boutiques at the big department stores were also closed. Nina Ricci produced fishnet-stockings and ugly bobs, which we could find at some resale departments. I was sure that in 2022 this beautiful house will cease to exist, as there’s no one to keep its history, identity and tradition.

Success of a brand attached to its artifact – history and values. Remove this artifact – the success will fade. And in 2021 Nina Ricci faded.

Rebirth of Nina Ricci 2023

An urgent decision was taken –  in May 2022 Edwin Bodson was appointed as a new CEO of Nina Ricci. And he started to reanimate Nina Ricci house. He fired a young couple, Dutch designers Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh. It was his decision to appoint young designer Harris Reed. 

So today we saw a new, quite spectacular collection, a first fashion show for the last few years. The collection of Nina Ricci was beautiful indeed, very American… or British… with its own aesthetic, blink-blink, huge bows and big hats.

Although I have to add here Harris Reed tried his best to see the Nina Ricci archives, old photos perhaps, and I have to admit in the new collection: we have stripes, and have feathers…. which we can definitely link to Nina Ricci identity.

I still hope for the best, and count this collection as a new rebirth of the house.

Black velvet tailored suit worn by Harry Styles at the Brit Awards was some sort of teaser for the new Nina Ricci style.

I’d also add here, that bringing Harris Reed as a designer of Nina Ricci makes a very strong position to Valentino and Schiaparelli. So let’s see how they will compete. Beware, Nina Ricci is coming out!

“I kind of wanted a big f–k-off moment because we’re still bringing you made-to-measure pieces, all sourced from England and trying to find sustainable routes when possible,” – said Harris Reed. “I wish I was supercool and didn’t give a f–k,” – he added… but he does when it comes to public and experts opinion about his new collection for Nina Ricci. 

So let’s hope that he does, and gives something more than that… 

My Nina… The Nina that is for everyone

For the first time in my life no need for a long long caption.
A NINE YEAR OLD’S QUEER KIDS DREAM CAME TRUE TODAY.

This one is for all the dreamers and bullied kids out there! YOU AND ALL YOUR DREAMS ARE VALID!!!!

See all looks Nina Ricci Fall Winter 2023-2024