Nina Ricci Spring Summer 2021 Paris Fashion Week. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®
Ever wondered what happened to this elegant house Nina Ricci, known by its exquisite couture and expensive garments? This house known since the beginning of XIX century. Elegance, grace, couture, creative design were the 4 pillars which made this house worldwide known and loved. French and English aristocracy were the loyal customers. But this was in the past.
Desire to renew the lines, renew the house, bring new young generation of the house became fiasco. House lost old generation of the customers, but for the last 5 years was not able to attract new generation. Quality of the fabrics, and couture dropped quiet low. Today in Galeries Lafayette in Paris you can see pieces of Nina Ricci in sales, as if Black Friday is all year long for this house. No surprise here.
Appointed designers Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh of Nina Ricci house in 2019 are not aware of the heritage of the house, and what they do they call “compilation”, like history of the house and archives never existed.
“They gave us a blank page,” said Lisi Herrebrugh at a preview, with disregard to distinctive design signature of the founder Nina Ricci, who brought Italian classy looks to France. Nina Ricci was the one of the first designers of XIX century, with culture of great tailor and contemporary dare. She was the first one who first brought African-inspired cocktail djellaba to French fashion in 1966. Nina Ricci left massive archives from 1883 – 1970. But it was in the past.
But none of this are taken on consideration by new Nina Ricci house. Making expensive compilations, resembling ordinary student work, didn’t bring to the house any new interest. Creative images, creative marketing, couture might work, but nowhere to be found. And now getting DIGITAL demanded creative approach.
Dull amateur video made for this Spring Summer 2021 simply could not make it happen. Actually nothing happened.
Do you know how many people were interested in the presentation of Nina Ricci Spring Summer 2021 collection today? 126 people, including me, from 56 000 subscribers. I have to say – Bravo, feeling very sad about this new management of the house, waste… terrible waste, which leads to non-existence.
Maybe bringing experts, professionals, creative to the house it is a right time to do, instead of hustling for “cheap-ish” designers who just finished school, and still learning how to use Rick Owens designs and mix them up with Pierre Cardin heritage, free photographers and videographers.
This new digital presentation of Nina Ricci for Spring Summer 2021 season was some sort of screenshots of the instagram, placed horizontally, clicking on images and places, with tasteless animations and videos put together, made by someone who just learned how to use the “easy make video” program.
Concerning the presented pieces. The idea was to finally get connected to the house heritage and recover lost classic couture looks. But… that was the only idea….. Nope! not even close.
All Looks of Nina Ricci Spring Summer 2021 collection.