Nina Ricci Spring Summer 2025 “Revival of European Elegance”. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY magazine. Photo Courtesy: Nina Ricci.
Introduction
Nina Ricci has always held a special place in my heart — a brand I have admired since my mother brought me to their store as a little girl. I remember the exquisite jackets, tailored to perfection, that we would find at the original Paris boutique, and later on Avenue Montaigne. Nina Ricci was a name synonymous with timeless elegance and refined sophistication. But times have changed, and it’s been a journey of reinvention for the brand.
The fall of Nina Ricci was not just a sudden collapse but rather a long, unfortunate unraveling caused by years of poor management and a lack of clear vision. The brand, which had once stood proudly on Avenue Montaigne — one of Paris’s most prestigious shopping streets — slowly became a shadow of its former self. It wasn’t just the closing of its iconic store; it was the series of missed opportunities, missteps in design direction, and an inability to adapt to the modern luxury market that led to the brand’s decline.
For years, the brand seemed to struggle with its identity, oscillating between attempting to appeal to a younger demographic while still clinging to its traditional roots. With a revolving door of designers and a lack of a cohesive creative strategy, Nina Ricci’s collections failed to resonate with either its loyal clients or attract a new audience. The elegant, Parisian flair that had once been the cornerstone of the house became muddled and diluted by ever-changing aesthetics that failed to honor the house’s tailoring roots and signature femininity.
Amid this turmoil, the situation worsened as Nina Ricci began auctioning off its designs in an effort to stay afloat. This desperate move was a far cry from the brand’s storied past, signaling not only a financial crisis but a loss of direction and dignity. The auctions further alienated its loyal clientele, turning what were once coveted pieces into mere commodities. The brand was now left without its original customers and had not succeeded in captivating a new audience.
The situation worsened under Puig’s ownership in the 2010s, where the emphasis shifted toward quick commercial successes rather than building on the house’s legacy. The brand’s doors on Avenue Montaigne eventually closed, signaling a significant decline in Nina Ricci’s presence in the Parisian fashion scene. The store had been a symbol of the brand’s elegance and prominence, and its closure marked the loss of Nina Ricci’s standing among the city’s luxury houses.
Designs from past seasons that failed to sell were liquidated through auctions, an unfortunate ending for pieces that had once been symbols of luxury. The brand’s historical archive, once a source of inspiration and pride, was scattered. This disregard for the house’s heritage alienated longstanding customers, and without a compelling new vision, the brand found it impossible to attract new followers.
Today, there is hope — a glimpse of revival under the new creative vision of Harris Reed. But this return to form feels tentative, almost guarded. The brand, while bringing fresh creativity to its designs, is still reluctant to share its magic broadly, perhaps wary of history repeating itself. And while there is excitement in the new direction, I can’t help but reflect on the missed opportunity to reconnect with the world that once adored every stitch and silhouette of Nina Ricci.
New Nina Ricci 2025
For the Nina Ricci woman, Spring Summer 2025 promises a return to a lifestyle of sophistication, adventure, and unapologetic glamour. Under the creative direction of Harris Reed, the house is embracing its roots while crafting a fresh narrative for today’s woman. With the brand’s tailoring DNA fused with 1960s and 70s heritage, Reed’s designs have propelled Nina Ricci back into the spotlight, reasserting its elegance and flair.
Since taking the reins as the Creative Director, Harris Reed has brought an audacious vision to the Nina Ricci house. After three successful seasons, his fourth collection for Spring Summer 2025 shows a creative evolution — where the boldness of entrance-making attire now coexists with a refined sense of ease and sophistication. For this season, Reed imagines a woman on an ostentatious European tour, packing up a wardrobe of luxurious travel trunks and indulging in the elegance of European capitals. Think Riviera romance, Parisian chic, and Roman dolce vita, all rolled into one impeccable collection.
A Nod to the 60s and 70s Heritage
The designs pay homage to the Nina Ricci of the early 60s, specifically between 1962 and 1965 — a time when classicism began to meet modernity. This period was marked by crisp tailoring, which served as the foundation for much of the collection. Reed’s 2025 vision reimagines these pieces with contemporary touches, juxtaposing structure and fluidity in a way that allows for both presence and movement.
Short belted trenches are a standout, evoking a crisp, tailored elegance, yet paired unexpectedly with blink-and-you-miss-them shorts, which bring a cheeky, carefree edge. Similarly, safari jackets — another nod to the era — are reimagined for the modern adventurer, balancing practicality and high fashion.
Entrance, and Movement
Known for his love of drama, Harris Reed has an innate understanding of the power of clothes that make an entrance. For this collection, he scales back the pyrotechnics to highlight singular impactful details — a testament to his growing confidence and comfort with the brand’s language. One such detail is a striking plissé panel of organza. This element, seen fluttering upward to veil the face or splaying out behind an evening dress, demonstrates how movement becomes part of the ensemble’s allure. The choice of this sheer fabric, which catches light and air effortlessly, creates a fluid, almost ethereal quality to the garments.
Reed’s approach to tailoring is equally noteworthy. While maintaining a focus on precise silhouettes, he introduces elements that soften or amplify the design’s allure. Whether it’s an otherwise svelte black dress transformed by an extravagant organza accent or a seemingly modest safari jacket made daring with its accompanying short shorts, each piece feels simultaneously timeless and refreshingly modern.
Tailoring Versus Freewheeling Femininity
The Spring Summer 2025 collection explores a dialogue between two forms of femininity — structured elegance and liberated fluidity. In his designs, Reed poses a question to the wearer: Why choose one when you can have both? This perspective is in line with current fashion trends, which are embracing the idea of freedom in expression, offering women the ability to play with soft gauziness or full-on tailored sophistication as they desire.
Beyond the mere silhouette, the textures, colors, and fabrics used throughout the collection evoke a sense of luxury fit for a European adventure. Reed’s preference for opulent materials like silk, organza, and brocade accentuates the collection’s glamour and makes it feel like a celebration of femininity in all its complexity.
A New Chapter for Nina Ricci
Under the leadership of the new CEO and Harris Reed’s creative eye, Nina Ricci is not just looking to its past for inspiration but reimagining it for the present day. Reed’s Spring Summer 2025 collection encapsulates a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, tailoring and ease, poised elegance and liberated freedom.
The house’s current renaissance is not only evident in the clothing but also in its message — a confident reclaiming of the brand’s legacy while propelling it firmly into the future. For the Nina Ricci woman, this collection is more than a seasonal wardrobe; it’s an invitation to pack her trunks, set out on a glamorous European adventure, and embrace every extravagant moment along the way.