Photographers Who Shaped Fashion. Story by Guillaumette Duplaix, Executive Editor of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: GettyArchives.
Even if you’re not a photography enthusiast, you’ve likely encountered the works of these iconic fashion photographers whose distinct styles and talents left a lasting mark on their eras. They continue to inspire today’s fashion photographers.
While many others have made significant contributions, this selection captures moments, memories, and shared emotions tied to these legendary artists.
Baron Adolf De Meyer (1868–1946)
German-born and active in the United States, Adolf De Meyer is often regarded as the world’s first fashion photographer.
In 1893, he declared his passion for photography by joining the Royal Photographic Society. By 1903, he became a member of the Linked Ring Brotherhood, an organization dedicated to elevating photography as a fine art.
In 1913, De Meyer began working with early fashion magazines, photographing actors, models, and aristocrats.
Tragically, much of his work was destroyed during World War II or deliberately destroyed by De Meyer himself in the 1930s.
Edward Steichen (1879–1973)
This Luxembourg-born American photographer was a pioneer in fashion photography and one of its most celebrated figures.
In 1911, Lucien Vogel, editor of Jardin des Modes, challenged Steichen to elevate fashion to the level of art through photography.
Steichen’s groundbreaking images of Paul Poiret’s designs, published in Art et Décoration in April 1911, are considered the first serious fashion photographs.
His early style reflected a soft, pictorialist approach with artistic retouches, contrasting with the sharp, mechanical precision of his peers.
After World War I, Steichen transitioned to a purer photographic style, experimenting with tones and light. His exhaustive study of a simple cup and saucer through varying shades of black and white remains legendary.
Lee Miller (1902–1977)
Elizabeth “Lee” Miller, an American model turned photographer, made her mark in both fashion and art photography.
Trained by Man Ray in Paris, she mastered techniques such as solarization, which involved reversing light and dark tones in her images.
Despite the economic challenges of the Great Depression, Miller established studios in both Paris and New York, cementing her place in the history of art.
In a 1969 interview, she described photography as “a matter of going out on a limb and sawing it off behind you,” encapsulating her fearless creative spirit.
Irving Penn (1917–2009)
Irving Penn revolutionized studio photography and is renowned for his exceptional fashion work.
A purist at heart, Penn’s controlled studio settings emphasized the model’s personality and the interplay of light and shadow.
Experts can often identify where his photos were taken simply by analyzing the lighting, underscoring his meticulous approach.
For Penn, the subject’s individuality was central, lending his images an unparalleled emotional depth.
Helmut Newton (1920–2004)
Known as the “king of provocation,” this German-born Australian photographer shaped the fashion world with his provocative black-and-white imagery.
Newton’s most famous photograph, Le Smoking (1975), depicts a model smoking in Paris while wearing a tuxedo by Yves Saint Laurent. This iconic image defined an entire aesthetic.
His daring and risqué style continues to influence fashion photography today.
Richard Avedon (1923–2004)
As Harper’s Bazaar’s photography director, Richard Avedon transformed fashion imagery with his dynamic and emotional approach.
His 1955 photograph Dovima with Elephants is one of the most expensive fashion photographs ever sold.
Avedon brought vibrancy to his subjects, capturing models in action, laughing, or emoting naturally.
Known for his minimalist portraiture, he often photographed his subjects against stark white backgrounds, focusing on their gaze and essence.
Tim Walker (b. 1970)
British photographer Tim Walker is celebrated for his fantastical, fairy-tale-inspired imagery.
His career began after a year working in Cecil Beaton’s archives, which influenced his imaginative style.
Walker’s work is characterized by muted or contrasting colors, dreamlike blurs, and layered transparencies, creating an unmistakable and surreal aesthetic.
Peter Lindbergh (1944–2019)
Born Peter Brodbeck, this German photographer and filmmaker broke conventions with his humanistic approach to fashion photography.
Lindbergh rejected the airbrushed perfection of his time, opting to capture the soul and personality of his subjects.
British journalist Suzy Menkes described his style as a “rejection of smooth perfection,” highlighting his ability to reveal raw emotion.
In 1988, his iconic series featuring models in simple white shirts launched the careers of the original supermodels and achieved international acclaim.
These visionaries didn’t just capture images—they redefined fashion photography as an art form, leaving behind legacies that continue to inspire generations, and form fashion of today.
