Prada Fall Winter 2022-2023 Milan Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of Runway Magazine.
Prada new collection is a commemoration of life and living – of the occasion of everyday affording importance to each moment. An ideology of Prada becomes an etymology of beauty, a history of women.
A salute to the profession of modeling. A history of women. This collection is a beautiful echo to Fall Winter 2022-2023 Menswear collection. Oversized men jacket, military uniforms reconstructed into elegant suits and dresses. 50s came back as a new modern elegance. Dramatic and than very fine transparent hybrid t-shirt / dresses adored with flowers.
Womenswear show by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada is reimagined by AMO. Sci-fi-like tunnels of metal grating lit with pale pink neon light take the models into the large and soft showspace. Olive green theatre chairs are organized according to an orthogonal grid, leaving a zig-zag space in between for models to walk.
A fascination with and reflection of humanity is a fundamental principle of Prada. The new collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons is a commemoration of life and living – of the occasion of the everyday, affording importance to each moment. Glimpses of tradition reflect histories of people, memories of lives, valued.
Tradition passes culture between generations – a conduit from the past to now. Mnemonics, recollections and quotations evoke fragments of personal narratives, comprising a history, a history of women.
Pragmatic pieces are given new emphasis and significance, tailoring combined with the language of evening clothes. Combinations of the quotidian and precious disturb the aesthetic vernacular of each. They simultaneously confer significance and emphasize reality, a fusion. Colliding traditions in unexpected manners, an inversion and challenge of materials, of embroideries, and of garments, agitate and disturb.
Conventionally masculine pieces are transformed, interrupted with the feminine: coats are carved out at the neck or back. The architecture of clothes affect their rapport with the body. Tailoring construction applied to soft dresses to give new forms.
History is universal. Within, inevitably, there is an archeology of Prada, investigation of the codifications and meanings evoked through appearance and approach. Glances at a Prada past. Elementally Prada, an eccentricity of surface is combined with spare silhouettes. Juxtapositions are made both between garments, and within their construction, combining materialisations and decoration. Referent to Prada’s own heritage, geometrics are translated to jacquard knits, embroideries and colors echoed.
In practice, an ideology of Prada becomes an etymology of beauty. And that is, centrally, the work of fashion – the process of defining the meaning of beauty, for today.