Richard Quinn Fall Winter 2021-2022. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
Better late than ever. Many designers presented their next Fall 2021 season 6 months ago. Richard Quinn, English designer based in London, presented next Fall today.
He picked up and drew interest of big public couple of years ago, in 2019 to be exact, when Moncler choose him for the Moncler Genius capsule collections. He “replaced” Pierpaolo Piccioli, designer of Valentino, who came with absolutely spectacular concept – goose down gowns.
Richard Quinn continued the concept of the gowns and proposed his own. The career of the designer is in general all about “picking up slugs”. Famous black and white prints on classic dresses, picked from Alexander McQueen, masks on the faces or covered faces picked from Walter Van Beirendonck.
Richard Quinn is indeed very “picky” designer, he picked on his way several great and ingenious concepts and designs. So the “New Alexander McQueen” title is way overreaching. There are fabulous flower prints of course.
Richard Quinn went for a Cat-Woman sadomasochist concept. It is quiet obvious that the designer choose the mask concept as the mask changes an identity, invoke a certain atmosphere and have an instant impact. Although that is not an impact he wanted to have. It gets really old – every man’s fantasy related to the sexy Cat-Woman from Batman. Turning this comix character into dominatrix is almost old as the character itself… 80 years or so (since 1960s) this concept burning minds of sexually passive men, who’s in need of sexual humiliation. Although there are many ways in fashion to imagine and present a woman wielding power over men.
Is that the way Richard Quinn decided to use to get rid of neuroticism, anxiety, and depression? And perhaps in his eyes all world is neurotic and depressed, and it is the only way to get better? Anyhow instant reaction of public is not the impact he wanted to have – no one get better, everyone notices disorder and got bored from watching cliché… cliché… cliché… How more glamourous it can get?