Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2025 “Feminine Authority”. Story by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Saint Laurent.

Anthony Vaccarello has never been one to shy away from making a bold statement at Saint Laurent, and for Spring Summer 2025, he took it to new heights—literally. This season’s show took place at the house’s iconic Rue de Bellechasse location, where a gleaming golden oval structure hovered above the runway, framing the spectacle below. The setting was a striking metaphor for the collection itself: elevated, daring, and unapologetically powerful. Despite the challenges of a rain-soaked runway, the models strode through with unwavering confidence, their demeanor matching the commanding tone of the collection. The scene was set for Vaccarello’s boldest offering yet—an unmistakable tribute to power dressing and the assertive energy of modern women.

This season, Vaccarello channeled the very essence of Yves Saint Laurent himself, drawing on the designer’s personal style to craft a collection that was strong and imbued with a sense of authority. The result? A powerful vision of women dressed in oversized, masculine suiting, wide ties, and bold accessories, evoking the androgynous aesthetic that Saint Laurent pioneered.

The collection’s sharp tailoring was its foundation. Anthracite, black, and plum suits, paired with shirts and ties, dominated the runway. These pieces were not about elegance in the traditional sense, but about control and empowerment. The double-breasted jackets and wide-legged trousers were structured, expertly cut, and distinctly masculine—but with an energy that celebrated the strength and independence of the modern woman. Vaccarello cited an interview where Yves Saint Laurent had remarked that his ideal woman was essentially a reflection of himself. This collection captured that ethos perfectly, dressing women in silhouettes that radiated confidence and power.

There was also a softer side to the collection—long, belted damask tunics over fluid trousers, accessorized with clanking bangles and ropes of necklaces, paying tribute to Loulou de la Falaise, Yves’ long-time muse. These looks, while more relaxed, never lost their sense of purpose, reflecting Vaccarello’s deft ability to balance masculine and feminine energies.

Yet, as bold as the collection was, there was something deeply personal about it. The brocade evening looks and billowing gossamer dresses, reminiscent of Yves’ muse Nan Kempner, spoke to the women who surrounded and inspired the house’s founder. Vaccarello’s moodboard included images of Yves taken by Andy Warhol, we might assume, a nod to the house’s heritage and the legendary women who helped shape it.

Vaccarello’s “Feminine Authority” collection was more than just a show—it was a statement. At a time when fashion seems to be retreating into safe, minimalist territory, Vaccarello charged forward with a collection that celebrated power, strength, and individuality. His return to the house’s roots, both in terms of venue and inspiration, felt instinctual and purposeful. As Paris Fashion Week began, Vaccarello had already stated that in a world of fleeting trends, true power never goes out of style.

See All Looks Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2025