Schiaparelli Couture Spring 2024 “Cosmic Fusion of Heritage and Futurism”. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Schiaparelli.
Daniel Roseberry, the creative director of Schiaparelli, has masterfully interwoven Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy with a futuristic vision in the Spring 2024 couture runway show. Drawing inspiration from the cosmic inclinations embedded in the brand’s history, Roseberry has propelled Schiaparelli into a new orbit, embracing the allure of space and the mystique of celestial fascination.
The narrative of the collection traces back to Elsa Schiaparelli’s familial connection to the cosmos. In 1877, her uncle Giovanni Schiaparelli’s discovery of Martian channels sparked the world’s fascination with extraterrestrial life, planting the seeds of an enduring fascination. It’s no surprise that space, with its infinite possibilities, has always been an informal code at Maison Schiaparelli.
This collection serves as a homage to the house’s celestial obsession, offering a mesmerizing study in contradictions. Roseberry expertly navigates the dichotomy between legacy and the avant-garde, the beautiful and the provocative, the earthbound and the heaven-sent. Embracing the wisdom of art and nature, the collection reveals that seemingly opposing elements can converge to birth startling chimeras—unexpected and unprecedented creations.
The Schiaparelli Couture Spring 2024 runway show featured a robot-baby, a dress embellished with a faux horse’s tail, and a bodice resembling a space-pod, igniting a runaway sensation synonymous with Roseberry’s transformative vision for the brand. Retro-technology met classic sci-fi influences, paying homage to haute couturiers of the past, with a 3-D spine inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s radical 1938 skeleton dress.
Notable among the glittering constructs were Roseberry’s robot woman dress and the baby, fashioned from nostalgic tech elements—defunct motherboards, flip-phones, mirrors, and crystals. The meticulous attention to detail showcased the designer’s reverence for the Maison’s history, reimagined through a contemporary lens. It became Design.
Celebrities graced the front row, including the Zendaya and the ever-iconic Jennifer Lopez. Styled by Schiaparelli’s adept team, the duo underwent total transformations, from hair to makeup. Jennifer Lopez exuded elegance in a white jacket adorned with eternal rose petals, featuring Lesage-embroidered Phoebus sun crafted with Swarovski crystals.
Roseberry’s silk knots dresses, motherboard-computer-sparkling rings, and repurposed Samsung phones added a technological edge to the collection. Each piece narrated a story of innovation and reinvention, affirming that success lies in the meticulous fusion of heritage and avant-garde visions.
Daniel Roseberry has not only captured the essence of Elsa Schiaparelli’s celestial preoccupations but has also propelled the brand into a stratosphere of its own—a realm where tradition fuses harmoniously with the promise of an exciting and boundary-pushing future.