Schiaparelli Fall Winter 2021-2022 Paris. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
With all immersive appreciation, and absolutely admiration for this collection and exploding talent of Creative Director of Schiaparelli House Daniel Roseberry I would like to start this article with paraphrasing…. “I like bit boobs…. and I can’t lie…”
The main theme – breasts… surreal golden breasts. Each and every piece of this collection is absolutely elegant. The DNA of Schiaparelli house took a new round and became a golden totem, of fetish I might say, of the new generation. Everything from glasses to the hats is absolutely elegant. Surrealism writ joyful. Bijoux that are as much armor as they are embellishment. A disciplined palette.
What is Schiaparelli? It’s a dedication to the unexpected, the risky, and the exuberant. You can see this philosophy in pieces like the oversized men’s parka, rendered in denim but with gold bijoux snaps; or the Milano knit trench coat trimmed in leather; or the navy-leather cowboy-cut pant. You can see it as well in the jewelry: oversized necklaces, earrings, and rings that combine a Dadaist absurdity with swaggering proportions, so that a row of molar-inspired rings (each crown of which is set with a glittering crystal) are worn on every finger, like a knuckle ring.
Yet the insistent, even unapologetic boldness of the decorative elements is juxtaposed with a sober elegance. The collection, rendered almost entirely in black, bone-white, and navy, is meant to be a canvas, a series of uniforms that the wearer can embellish with as much (or as little) as she wants. In that way, these pieces feel very personal to me—and, to I hope, the woman who wears them. They allow for freedom of expression, whether that’s a shout or a whisper.
“That fascination with body parts extends to our pieces featuring breast or nipple embellishments. Sometimes, as in the pair of gold quilted leather breasts on a cream-colored hand-knit wool sweater, they’re pliable and soft (in this case, they were inspired by a pair of Man Ray eyewear from the 30s). Other times, as in the molded leather bralettes, they’re harder, a kind of protection: serious with a sense of self-awareness. In both cases, they pay tribute to the body itself—its beautiful sculptural quality, its wondrous shapes. Elsa Schiaparelli believed that anatomy was not just a point of inspiration, but a playground. I believe that as well. That combination, of wit and wonder, is what defined her work—I hope it defines mine as well,” – said Roseberry.