The Devil Wears Stripes: A Historical Journey Through Fashion. Story by Guillaumette Duplaix, Executive Editor of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

“Beauty begins the moment you decide to be yourself.” – Coco Chanel

This timeless quote from Coco Chanel encapsulates the enduring journey of stripes in fashion. From a symbol of exclusion to an emblem of rebellion and sophistication, stripes have woven their way into history with resilience and flair. Today, they are celebrated as a staple of timeless style, championed by designers like Coco Chanel and Jean-Paul Gaultier. But the rise of stripes was far from linear—their path is as bold and disruptive as the pattern itself. Let’s dive into their fascinating history.

A Stained Beginning: Stripes as a Symbol of Marginality

In ancient and medieval Western cultures, stripes were anything but fashionable. They were a mark of exclusion, often used to signal those considered undesirable by society. This disdain is rooted in religious texts, including Leviticus 19:19, which forbids garments woven from mixed materials. Striped clothing, with its bold contrasts, was seen as chaotic and defiant of order.

During the Middle Ages, striped attire was relegated to society’s outcasts: prisoners, prostitutes, lepers, and jesters. This visual marker served as a warning, reinforcing the rigid boundaries of social hierarchy. In art and literature, stripes symbolized transgression, and their wearers were depicted as people to be avoided or condemned.

Medieval artwork, such as the Codex Manesse and Albrecht Dürer’s Apocalypse, reinforces this association. The horizontal nature of early stripes amplified their disruptive appearance, making them a tool of visual and societal segregation. Before the Renaissance, to wear stripes was to be marked as “other.”

“You shall not wear a garment woven of two parts.” Leviticus 19:19 in the Bible is seen as the explanation for the disenchantment with stripes in the history of the ancient and then medieval West.

A Vertical Shift: The Renaissance and Rebellion

The Renaissance marked a turning point for stripes, though not an entirely liberating one. Stripes shifted from horizontal to vertical, aligning with the era’s burgeoning focus on structure and order. Yet, they remained a symbol of lower social standing, often worn by servants, peasants, and the working class.

In France, stripes became emblematic of the Third Estate during the 18th century. This oppressed class, comprising the common people, used stripes as a visual language of defiance. Revolutionary imagery frequently depicted the Sans-Culottes, France’s revolutionary working-class heroes, in striped garments. The bold lines echoed their refusal to conform to the status quo, marking stripes as a pattern of rebellion.

The French Revolution catapulted stripes further into the public eye, granting them a newfound popularity. Their visual boldness aligned with the spirit of change, and they began to adorn decorative garments. Stripes took their first steps toward fashion—an act of defiance woven into every thread.

Stripes Go to Sea: From Uniform to Icon

By the 17th century, stripes had found a new home: the high seas. Sailors across Europe began wearing striped uniforms, a practice documented in Dutch and English paintings of the time. These early striped garments were practical, designed to distinguish sailors from civilians and signify their rank aboard ships.

In France, this practice was formalized in 1858 when the Marine Nationale adopted the striped jersey, or marinière, as part of its uniform. This decree laid out strict specifications: the jersey was to feature 20-21 indigo stripes on the torso and 14-15 on the sleeves, all meticulously spaced. The stripes were not merely decorative—they served practical purposes. The bold lines made sailors easier to spot if they fell overboard, and the garments were affordable to produce thanks to advancements in textile machinery.

The marinière became synonymous with the maritime world, a functional yet striking piece of design that would later captivate the fashion world.

Stripes Ashore: The Rise of the Marinière in Fashion

The late 19th century saw the marinière take its first steps from the decks of ships to the sands of seaside resorts. With the rise of European tourism and the allure of coastal retreats, stripes became a symbol of leisure and sophistication. The striped patterns of sailors’ uniforms began appearing on swimsuits, parasols, and beachwear, blending practicality with elegance.

Coco Chanel was instrumental in elevating stripes to haute couture. In 1913, she introduced striped marinières in her Deauville boutique, inspired by the simplicity and functionality of sailor’s uniforms. Chanel’s designs were a revelation: they embodied a new, relaxed elegance that defied the rigid norms of early 20th-century fashion. Her stripes were bold, unpretentious, and liberating—a true reflection of her philosophy.

As the decades passed, stripes became a recurring motif in high fashion. In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent incorporated stripes into his “Navy Look,” pairing them with peacoats and trousers for a sharp, modern aesthetic. In 1983, Jean-Paul Gaultier’s “Toy Boy” collection transformed the marinière into an icon of avant-garde fashion. Gaultier’s bold designs, including striped evening gowns, celebrated the pattern’s versatility and rebellion.

Stripes Today: An Icon of Freedom

No longer burdened by their tumultuous past, stripes now exude timeless appeal. Whether horizontal or vertical, they symbolize boldness, individuality, and freedom. From the rebellious Sans-Culottes to the sophistication of Chanel, stripes have traveled an extraordinary journey, transcending their origins to become a mainstay of modern fashion.

Today, stripes are a symbol of timeless style, bridging the gap between practicality and sophistication. From the streets of Paris to the runways of Milan, stripes continue to captivate designers and wearers alike. Their journey from outcast to icon reflects the evolving nature of fashion—a testament to its power to transform perceptions and rewrite narratives.

Stripes challenge convention, embrace rebellion, and celebrate the beauty of being unapologetically bold. In a world of fleeting trends, stripes endure, a reminder that fashion’s greatest stories are often those born from defiance.

Stripes stand as a universal emblem of freedom—a pattern that transcends time, borders, and conventions. They tell a story of defiance turned into elegance, of boundaries broken, and of individuality celebrated. In every bold line lies a reminder: true style is the courage to embrace who you are.