Versace Pre-Fall 2024 “Versace Who?” Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Versace.
In the world of fashion, there’s a thin line between homage and heist, and it seems Versace’s latest Pre-Fall 2024 collection is tiptoeing that boundary like a cat on a hot tin roof. Since Tapestry Inc.’s acquisition of Versace in August 2023, the brand has seemingly adopted a “Versace Who?” approach, fixating on raiding the closets of esteemed French fashion houses rather than channeling its own iconic DNA.
Donatella Versace, the powerhouse behind the brand, seems to be on a scavenger hunt for inspiration, darting from Louis Vuitton to Fendi and Dior faster than a paparazzo chasing the latest celebrity trend. The Spring Summer 2024 show sported a chequered pattern akin to Louis Vuitton’s offerings, and now, the target du jour is none other than Kim Jones, the creative director behind Fendi Ready-to-Wear and Dior Menswear. It appears that Donatella has been forced to borrow the design playbook from the library of her competitors, resorting in a collection marketwise.
In a surprising move, the collection dared to deviate from the usual Versace flamboyance, opting for softer hues and attempting to infuse ease into archival designs. The collection opened with a blast from the past – a 1960s shift paired with ballet flats. Hold your breath; yes, you read that correctly. Donatella, notorious for her six-inch stilettos, decided to give comfort a chance. The fashion cosmos might still be recovering from this seismic shift.
Attempting to emulate Donatella’s off-duty chic, the collection showcased cashmere coats in camel, chic cargos paired with cashmere knits, and sharply-tailored blazers, very Kim Jones alike. While this nod to everyday wearability might appeal to mere mortals, it’s a far cry from the glitz and glamour usually associated with Versace.
The collection centered on strong tailoring, with cropped and boxy jackets that screamed versatility. Skirts became shorter and sassier, but the oversized renditions took a backseat, making way for more subdued volumes. Cargos were presented in feminine avatars, while dresses flaunted hourglass shapes and daring cutouts, encapsulating the brand’s signature allure. The pièce de résistance? A cocktail minidress crafted from the signature silver metal mesh, a lighter rendition of the Versace Atelier collections.
Menswear mirrored the collection’s ethos, emphasizing strong yet lightweight construction. Denim took center stage, flaunting sleeveless trucker jackets and slouchy cargos, a departure from the bygone era of skinny trousers. Voluminous pants with fitted jackets reimagined the Versace suit for a new generation, signaling the end of an era where skinny pants once reigned supreme.
In a fashion landscape where originality is a rare gem, Versace’s Pre-Fall 2024 collection seems to be grappling with an identity crisis. While attempting to reinvent itself, it risks losing the very essence that made Versace, well, Versace. In this game of fashion thrones, let’s hope Versace finds its way back home before it’s too late. After all, there’s only so much closet-raiding one can do before the treasure loses its luster.
See All Looks Versace Pre-Fall 2024
