Best of New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2021-2022. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
New digital experience proposed by CFDA – fashion federation, RUNWAY360 digital platform for American designers became a next revolutionary step in fashion industry. CFDA, American Fashion Federation, proposed to the designers to launch their collections all year long. New American Collections Calendar replaced usual schedule of New York Fashion Week. At the present time the seasons are more less respected but big houses like Ralph Lauren for example for some time now, or Tommy Hilfiger who went for “See Now Buy Now” couple of years ago. Today many designers are no longer wish to follow the seasons, and present the collection to press and distribution lines and private buyers 1 year ahead.
Many designers prefer to take the control of distribution of the collections by themselves: on their online stores, to the carefully chosen stores, and also at the same season. The choice is understandable. Many designer like Giorgio Armani or Valentino expressed the same opinion. Many American Designers left official New York Fashion Week calendar to show the collection for this reason. So by giving to the designers this freedom to present the collections at their convenient time, and freedom to choose the season, CFDA blurred not just the calendar and presentation season. The downside of this new step is also to blur the calendars of all fashion weeks worldwide.
It’s been 27 years since the fashion week calendar has been formed by Fashion Federations in USA, France, Italy and Great Britain in 1994, so one fashion week could follow one another, comfortable enough for the buyers and press / experts. Even fashion shows go back to XIX century, Charles Frederick Worth, who considered a first organizer of fashion show in history, only in 1943 fashion week was formed. It was actually created in New York, as today it was re-formed in new York. We finished this circle with hope to the new adventures.
In 1943 the first-ever “fashion week,” New York Fashion Week, was held, with one main purpose: to give fashion buyers alternatives to French fashion during World War II, when workers in the fashion industry were unable to travel to Paris. And until 1994 shows were held in different locations, such as hotels, lofts, showrooms and galleries. So now we add to the history a year 2021 when a fashion week and fashion shows were reformed in something else. All issues of pandemic aside, fashion presentations go digital, but it will not last long, so I guess we’ll go back to presentations in hotels, lofts and galleries at any time we want them to be. In another worlds there will be no longer the calendar, no more presentations a year ahead. Perhaps it’ll lead us to something more responsible, and more concern our environment.
So making air quotes we had New York Fashion Week in the calendar, and the designers who presented their collections on the dedicated RUNWAY360 platform. Couple of days ago New York Fashion week finished, London Fashion Week started to roll with Vivienne Westwood and Matty Bovan presentations. And American designers are continue to show their collections. So we’ll try to keep up and and show the best looks for Fall-Winter 2021-2022.
Flowers, lots and lots of flowers, floating silhouettes, soft organic materials and little bit of blink-blink of course.