Can Matthieu Blazy’s Minimalism Match Chanel’s Elegance? A Risky Gamble. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Bottega Venetta / Matthieu Blazy.

Matthieu Blazy – The MasterMind Behind Bottega’s Billion-Euro Boom  

Matthieu Blazy has been appointed as the new creative director of Chanel. Known for his focus on contemporary designs, Blazy will oversee Chanel’s haute couture, ready-to-wear, and accessories collections. His appointment marks a new chapter for the iconic brand, with expectations that he will bring a fresh perspective while respecting Chanel’s heritage.

Born in Paris in 1984, Matthieu Blazy studied at La Cambre in Brussels, graduating in 2007. He began his career as a menswear designer under Raf Simons and later joined Maison Martin Margiela, working on the ‘Artisanal’ line. Afterward, he contributed to Phoebe Philo’s team at Céline as a senior designer, before moving to Calvin Klein as Vice President of design for both womenswear and menswear under Raf Simons.

In 2020 Matthieu Blazy  joined Bottega Veneta as design director and was promoted to creative director in November 2021. At Bottega Veneta he revitalized the brand’s leather goods. His tenure saw significant growth for the brand, with leather goods becoming a major revenue driver and strong performance in both the Italian and U.S. markets.

During his time at Bottega Veneta, the brand experienced a steady rise in revenue, surpassing €1.5 billion in 2021 – a 24% increase compared to the previous year. This growth was driven by strong performance across all distribution channels, with directly operated stores seeing a nearly 30% increase year-on-year.

Matthieu Blazy for Bottega Veneta last collection.

From Bottega to Chanel: Is Matthieu Blazy the Right Fit?  

Leather goods, a hallmark of Bottega Veneta, became a key focus under Matthieu Blazy, accounting for over 75% of the brand’s revenue globally by 2023. These products highlighted his dedication to quality and craftsmanship, resonating strongly with consumers. The North American market emerged as a significant contributor, representing around 17% of global revenue, while Italy remained a solid foundation for the brand’s sales.

Now, Chanel is betting on Blazy to work his magic. Expectations…. expectations… expectations….

Can Matthieu Blazy’s Minimalism Match Chanel’s Elegance? A Risky Gamble

Chanel’s decision to appoint Matthieu Blazy as creative director seems driven by numbers rather than nuance. While  Matthieu Blazy’s track record at Bottega Veneta showcases undeniable financial success, the creative essence he brings – rooted in contemporary minimalism and menswear sensibilities – feels strikingly out of step with Chanel’s heritage.

Matthieu Blazy is a designer forged in the school of Raf Simons, celebrated for modern, structured designs that challenge traditional silhouettes. At Bottega, this translated into innovative pieces like hybrid skirts-and-pants designs, long grey coats, and sharp, androgynous pantsuits. For Chanel, however, this approach may not resonate. Chanel thrives on femininity, elegance, and timeless craftsmanship. The playful tweeds, delicate florals, and unmistakable sense of luxury that define the brand feel worlds apart from Blazy’s muted palette of grey, tartan, and minimalistic menswear influences.

Even his success with leather goods at Bottega raises concerns. Blazy’s standout technique – crafting oversized leather bags that mimic woven rattan baskets—worked brilliantly for the Italian brand’s contemporary aesthetic. But applying the same logic to Chanel’s timeless quilted handbags? That’s another story. Chanel bags are iconic because they exude sophistication and refinement, qualities that might not align with  Matthieu Blazy’s less-is-more philosophy and designs.

The heart of the problem lies in the mismatch between Blazy’s modernist style and Chanel’s commitment to its heritage and luxury. Yes, he’ll have access to Chanel’s vast archives, but can he reinterpret the intricate world of haute couture with the finesse it demands? Haute couture isn’t about grey tank tops or tartan shirts. It’s about meticulous craftsmanship, storytelling through embellishment, and a celebration of femininity—all areas where Blazy’s resume appears thin.

Chanel’s decision feels like a gamble on financial potential rather than creative alignment. What worked for an Italian brand steeped in contemporary design language may not translate to a French house that stands as a beacon of classic luxury. The structured, cerebral aesthetic that Blazy excels at risks clashing with Chanel’s soft and romantic legacy. And while profits are important, it is important to understand that they are based on the specific brand identity Chanel is famous for. Without this identity we have to ask the question if there will be financial profits at all if the identity will be removed or restructured into grey tank tops.

For now, all eyes will be on  Matthieu Blazy  to see if he can adapt, but the odds seem stacked against him. Chanel’s choice, bold as it may be, might prove to be a costly misstep – not for its bottom line, but for its identity.