Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2018-19 . The Fall Winter 2018/19 collection’s “High Profile” silhouette redefines the Haute Couture look. The CHANEL ateliers created skirts and long dresses in tweed, velvet and chiffon with zippered slits, revealing the leg in elegant profile. Each of these looks opens on the side to reveal a matching mini-skirt, with tweed or sequined braiding extending the line.
Zippers are a statement feature of the Fall-Winter 2018/19 Haute Couture collection, slashing through the silhouettes and transforming the look of tweed suits and evening gowns. Embroidered with braid, they run down jacket sleeves to reveal extra-long fingerless gloves and contrasting linings in silk or brocade. Dresses are made to the same design, with slits up the side revealing embroidered mini-skirts underneath.
“Haute Couture is an island of dreams and escapism. It is the utmost luxury which transcends fashions and crosses time.” Karl Lagerfeld’s observation summarizes the primary vocation of CHANEL since Gabrielle Chanel first opened her Couture House in 1915. Imbued with unique know-how, Haute Couture finds its essence in the vision of a designer and the perfection of cut and details, elevated by the craftsmanship of the Maisons d’art that bring their expertise to each creation. Precision of line, shape and structure is epitomized by singular creations that may be entirely embroidered. In this way, Haute Couture gives free rein to any idea, without limit or constraint. Such creativity goes hand-in-hand with patience and the highest standards.
First, the sketch is interpreted as a pattern in cotton toile. During this first step of patternmaking on a mannequin, the head seamstress recreates the silhouette in three dimensions, following Karl Lagerfeld’s directions, until the silhouette is as the designer imagined it in his sketch. The pattern is then used to create a “toile” of the look. The placements of future embroideries and braided trim take shape. A model tries it on for Karl Lagerfeld’s approval. The toile is then reproduced in the fabric of his choice, an almond green wool.
Haute Couture creations require the talents of the head seamstresses and their experienced teams. Beneath their agile fingers, Karl Lagerfeld’s detailed sketches come to life. It starts with a cotton toile, the first interpretation of a design that materializes a silhouette. After several fittings in the presence of Karl Lagerfeld, 60 or 70 looks of each Haute Couture collection are then created in chosen materials, embroidered, pleated, embellished with feathers, braided, and adorned with jewel-like buttons.
Whether cut in “flou”, ethereal fabrics destined for dresses and blouses, or other, more tailored textiles like the tweeds so dear to Gabrielle Chanel, each of the creations requires meticulous execution. Under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld and the Studio, the “flou” atelier thus enters into a savvy dialogue with the “tailoring” atelier, which is specialized in making structured pieces with complex cuts like the CHANEL suit.
Starting from a sample approved by Karl Lagerfeld, olive leaves and braided trim made of rocaille beading in shades of sea green are embroidered by hand. The leaves are then assembled into olive branches with the help of a needle. These embroideries and braiding produced by atelier Montex will embellish the jacket, directly inspired by the attire worn by members of the “Académie Française” at the Institut de France, the dress and its mini-skirt.
With gestures, techniques and inspirations that are constantly renewed, the CHANEL Métiers d’art houses bring together uncompromising standards and excellence. This galaxy counts a number of ateliers with exceptional know-how, among them the feather-working and flower specialist Lemarié, the shoemaker Massaro, the embroiderers Maison Lesage and Montex, the milliner and hatmaker Maison Michel, the glove-maker Causse and the pleating specialist Lognon. From the creation of tweeds, laces and silks to feather-working, flower-making and embroidery or the art of accessorizing with hats, gloves and jewelry, Haute Couture celebrates the virtuosity of these remarkable artisans.