Chanel Resort 2022 Cruise. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
In press-release it says that this collection is all about “From Cocteau to Coco”, the adoration letters from great filmmaker to great designer. “Two free spirits with their own singular worlds, and a herbarium from Provence as an invitation to travel.” But it turns out to be more like bestiary in the apartment of Coco Chanel in Paris in fishnet stockings, related to the youth of Virginie Viard in 1980s and nothing else.
Creative Director of Chanel Virginie Viard is making Chanel more and more for her wardrobe. 66 pieces of Virginie Viard for Virginie Viard to remind of her punk youth. Well, why not. If Chanel wants to go plumpy, Chanel wants to go fishnet stoking plumpy. It’s not rebel or anything, it’s just glammed-up girly punk with flowers in the hair styled David Bowie-ish. Did you notice that there’s not even one skinny model, and even skinny ones look very… very much like Virginie Viard? She played with big dolls, renewed her wardrobe, imagining there are many women are like her in this world. Probably…. but not that many. Chanel yearly loosing 30% of their income, bags and shoes are still keeping this house alive. It’s been only 2 years since Karl Lagerfeld left us, so there are probably couple more years to go before announcing bankruptcy. If Chanel don’t care, why should we? There are many wonderful pieces from the Karl Lagerfeld’s past are still available at the online auctions and vintage stores. So we are all set.
On this cheerful note I’ll just drop here the Chanel resort 2022 press-release… very farfetched. But I hope it helps…
“Echoing the simplicity, accuracy and poetry of Jean Cocteau’s “Testament of Orpheus”, the CHANEL Cruise 2022 collection designed by Virginie Viard reflects the eternal modernity of black and white. At the heart of limestone walls Carrières de Lumières, in the soft light of Baux-de-Provence, the collection plays on contrasts, between the sixties, rock and punk.
In a wild nature, just under the eye of the sun shining in the blue of the sky, a place of shadow and light. Is it an underground castle, a deep cathedral carved by giants, a magical tomb where dreams come to life? It is, in any case, a place for poets.
One of them got down there one day. He was captivated by it. These ancient quarries were sleeping. He woke them up. Projecting on their stone walls, smooth, white and blond, his fantastic visions: men with horse heads, a flower offered to a goddess, a photo that is reconstituted in flames, a sphinx with outstretched wings and bare chest .
A film of total poetry, one that is written not in ink, but in light, and which the spirit of Gabrielle Chanel has now revisited. As if to continue their intense friendship. Two crazy-looking free spirits, crazy for lines, one chiseling the rhythm of fabrics, the other the wrinkling of sentences.
Two soul mates who found themselves without looking for each other, magnetized to each other by the love of style and the passion for bestiaries. Griffins and centaurs for him, lions, two-headed eagles and deer for her, spinning on the lacquer of her Coromandel screens and on the magical water of her mirrors on rue Cambon. “Mirrors would do well to think,” he said mischievously.
She dressed her characters. He covered his fashion with words, “this pretext for disobeying.” From Cocteau to Coco, there were indeed only a few letters. They wrote them to each other. “From heart to heart. A few letters, and a star. The one with which Jean signed his admirable missives to his “Dear Coco”. The one Mademoiselle gave him in return for his Immortal sword, in the center of a lyre, “little star-wormwood fallen from our friendly sky,” he wrote to her. This star was an emerald, and it was looking at us.
In Orpheus’ Testament, it is a lot about the eye, knowing how to look. With all his soul. For Cocteau, only the invisible can really be seen
Now close your eyes, then open them wide. In order to finally be able, as Cocteau said in Le Testament d’Orphée, “to dream together the same dream”. In this place of shadow and light.”