Checkmate, Darling: Inside Chanel’s 110-Carat Haute Horlogerie Chess Set. Story by Kate Granger, Editor of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: CHANEL.

Leave it to Chanel to turn a blood-sport of intellectual strategy into the ultimate statement of high fashion and technical virtuosity. Under the sharp direction of Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of the Watchmaking Creation Studio, the House has unveiled L’Échiquier—a breathtaking, one-of-a-kind chess set that anchors the 14-piece “CHANEL Coco Game” collection.

Here, Mademoiselle Gabrielle Chanel isn’t just a spectator; she is the reigning Queen of a board where every move is permitted, and time itself is hidden right under her iconic slingbacks.

Designed on Place Vendôme and meticulously assembled at the Chanel Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, this unique piece effortlessly fuses high-tech ceramics, 18-karat white gold, and an astounding 9,236 brilliant-cut diamonds (~110.94 carats).

The Ultimate Board Room

The playing field itself is a masterclass in graphic contrast. Resting on a deep, mysterious black obsidian base, the 64-square board alternates between high-resistance black and white ceramic. Framing this battlefield of style is a dazzling border set with 516 brilliant-cut diamonds (~15.48 carats).

But the true genius lies in the 32 meticulously sculpted miniature figurines, each pulling directly from the symbolic universe of Chanel.

The White Pieces: Snow-Set Sophistication

Crafted predominantly in 18-karat white gold with contrasting black and white high-resistance ceramic bases, the white side is an absolute blizzard of diamonds:

• The King: A regal lion, snow-set with 764 diamonds and finished with black lacquer details.
• The Knights: Two horses snow-set with 503 diamonds, featuring blacked white gold detailing and a quilted-effect base.
• The Bishops: Two couture dress forms shimmering with 392 diamonds.
• The Rooks: Two miniature Place Vendôme columns encrusted with 198 diamonds.
• The Pawns: Eight exquisite white gold figurines punctuated with black ceramic rings and snow-set diamonds.

The Black Pieces: High-Tech Ceramic Drama

The opposing side relies on the sleek, ultra-hard, and modern allure of matte and polished black high-resistance ceramic, accented by white gold and diamonds:

• The King: A fierce black ceramic lion set with 142 diamonds.
• The Knights: Two black ceramic horses with 158 diamonds and sharp black PVD details on quilted bases.
• The Bishops: Two matte black ceramic dress forms interwoven with white gold threads and 50 diamonds.
• The Rooks: Two striking matte black ceramic Vendôme columns holding 272 diamonds.
• The Pawns: Eight black ceramic pawns featuring white gold rings set with a staggering 784 diamonds.

The Queens Secret: A Dual-Purpose Masterpiece

The true protagonists of this game are, naturally, the two Queens. Represented by miniatures of Mademoiselle Chanel herself—the White Queen in an opulent snow-set diamond tweed suit, and the Black Queen in an elegant black-lacquered ensemble and hat—they hold the ultimate power.

They are the only pieces that tell time.

Flip either Mademoiselle over, and hidden beneath her base is a high-precision quartz watch movement. The White Queen features a 25mm dial fully paved with 68 diamonds, while the Black Queen counters with a minimalist, sleek black-lacquered dial.

Proposing an incredibly chic twist on versatility, both Queens can be detached from their ceramic bases and worn as secret watches. They suspend beautifully from an accompanying 18-karat white gold chain set with 268 diamonds, onyx beads, and a central brilliant-cut diamond (~0.70 carat).

Engraved on this masterwork are the definitive words: “PIÈCE UNIQUE” and “FABRIQUÉE EN SUISSE À LA MANUFACTURE HORLOGÈRE DE CHANEL.” With L’Échiquier, Chanel doesn’t just play the game of haute horlogerie—they completely rewrite the rules. Your move.

See Closer Look at Chanel’s 110-Carat Haute Horlogerie Chess Set