Elie Saab Spring Summer 2025 “Lost in Translation”. Story by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Elie Saab.

In a surprising departure from his hallmark style, Elie Saab’s Spring Summer 2025 collection pivots towards a thematic exploration that feels at once ambitious and perplexing. Known for his intricate embroidery, opulent embellishments, and unapologetically feminine silhouettes, the Lebanese designer takes a distinct turn this season, navigating a post-colonial aesthetic inspired by “the sultry African air” and “sun-soaked savannah days beneath endless blue skies.”

Unveiled at the Palais de Tokyo, this collection diverges sharply from the predictable path of ‘safari chic,’ which has long peppered the fashion landscape. While that well-trodden aesthetic often teeters on the edge of colonial nostalgia, Saab successfully sidesteps this pitfall by crafting garments that draw inspiration from Africa’s vast and multifaceted landscapes, rather than romanticized archetypes. However, this shift raises questions about the collection’s coherence and adherence to the Elie Saab ethos, leaving some to wonder whether the designer found himself lost in “translation.”

A New Vision of Safari

This season, the safari suit—a familiar trope in collections invoking African themes—reimagines itself under Saab’s hand. His linen separates and crepe jumpsuits evoke classic safari silhouettes, yet they take on hues far removed from the expected neutral khakis. The palette bursts with the vibrancy of fireball lilies, the neutral yet compelling shades of elephant gray, and the rich ochre of the African landscape, animated by the dusts of the harmattan winds.

Intriguingly, raffia makes a notable appearance in the collection, diverging from Saab’s usual lavish fabrics. Delicately woven into low-slung skirts and minidresses with faint bubble hems, this natural fiber speaks to the collection’s grounding in earthy textures. Elsewhere, it appears as subtle fern embroideries gracing floor-length tulle gowns, grounding the collection in a more restrained elegance than Saab is typically known for.

A New Take on Animalia

Saab’s collection embraces animal-inspired motifs, but in a more understated manner than one might expect. Military jackets, chiffon gowns, and cinched Saharienne coats are decorated with micro leopard prints, which lean towards a muted, almost whisper-like expression rather than a bold roar. This decision allows the collection to capture the essence of the African savannah without veering into costume-like campiness. The effect is sultry, but refined—a fine balance that retains Saab’s signature sophistication even in this thematic departure.

Lush Landscapes in Luxe Silhouettes

A recurring motif throughout the collection is foliage, drawing on the lush green palette of rainforests and Africa’s botanical richness. This is where Saab’s eveningwear shines most clearly, with structured, belted pantsuits, caped dresses, and glove-fit chiffon gowns all touched by forest hues. These pieces exude a sensuality that is firmly rooted in nature, offering a different kind of glamour—one that is at once organic and highly polished.

Yet, it is the intricate emerald embroideries of palm fronds on floor-grazing gowns that truly encapsulate Saab’s mastery of the eveningwear craft. These looks dazzle with decadence, bringing a welcome touch of Saab’s signature craftsmanship to the collection. For all its thematic wanderings, it is here that the designer’s loyal clientele will find familiar territory—gowns that speak to a luxurious elegance, imbued with the designer’s unmistakable love for intricate detail.

A Moment of Reflection

While the collection undeniably captures an ambitious vision, it also feels like a stylistic experiment—a recalibration of the brand’s direction that might not fully settle within Saab’s well-established design vocabulary. With its lean towards natural textures and a more pared-down approach, the collection challenges the brand’s loyal audience to look beyond Saab’s trademark opulence. However, the absence of his usual extravagant embroideries and embellishments may leave some yearning for the Saab of seasons past. It’s a bold move, one that speaks to the complexities of navigating thematic inspirations while maintaining brand identity.

In Search of Saab’s Soul

The Spring Summer 2025 collection raises questions about how far a designer can stray from his established style without losing their essence. For Saab, a master of intricate design, this season’s embrace of simplicity and natural motifs may feel like a wild journey. But in its exploration, the collection seems to sit at a crossroads, caught between honoring its thematic source and staying true to the Saab signature.

As these looks make their way from the runway to stores, it will be interesting to see how this collection resonates with Saab’s clientele. Will it be seen as a fresh, inspired take on the beauty of Africa’s diverse landscapes? Or will it be regarded as a temporary deviation from the beloved hallmarks of Saab’s design identity? Either way, Elie Saab’s Spring Summer 2025 collection is a compelling chapter in the designer’s evolving narrative—a reminder that even the most established names in fashion can be moved by a desire to redefine their path.

See All Looks Elie Saab Spring Summer 2025