Valentino Spring Summer 2025 “Bohemian Valentino”. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Valentino.

A New Chapter Unveiled Under Alessandro Michele’s Vision

The anticipation was palpable at Paris Fashion Week as Valentino’s Spring Summer 2025 collection was set to grace the runway. All eyes were on the house’s new creative director, Alessandro Michele, who was poised to bring a breath of fresh air to the iconic brand. This was not just a new collection—it was the debut of Michele’s reimagining of the Valentino archives, an exploration of heritage, and a revival of luxury with an unexpected twist. The star-studded event drew a constellation of celebrities, from Sir Elton John and David Furnish to Harry Styles and Salma Hayek, making it one of the week’s most glittering spectacles.

Alessandro Michele: A Bohemian Lens on Valentino’s Heritage

Best known for his bohemian flair during his time at Gucci, Michele took on the rich and refined history of Valentino Garavani with a keen sense of reverence and reinterpretation. His approach was a fusion of the past and present, combining classic Valentino elements—like bows and polka dots—with a twist that transported viewers back to the aristocratic elegance of the early 20th century. The result was both surprising and captivating, a departure from the traditionally sleek Valentino silhouette in favor of something more romantic, extravagant, and undeniably unique.

The Collection: A Symphony of Embroidery, Elegance, and the Unexpected

The collection itself was opulent, dripping with details that felt almost like couture. Michele’s signature lavish embroidery adorned sheer black gowns with polka dots that shimmered under the lights, and large hats with trailing feathers and fake fur evoked a sense of playful drama. Bows appeared in unexpected places—large and sculptural, or as delicate accents in faux fur with imperial black feathers, reimagining the essence of Valentino Garavani but through his own leans. Each piece was a dialogue between the classic codes of the house and Michele’s reinterpretation.

It was a surprising collection, one that perhaps did not draw a direct line from Valentino’s past identity but instead created a new narrative—a different story for a different time. Michele’s take on Valentino’s heritage was not about following a predictable path.

Valentino Pavillon des Folies: A Ghostly Labyrinth of Reflection and Fantasy

The setting of the show was nothing short of transformative. Set within the Valentino Pavillon des Folies in the heart of Paris, the venue was designed as a labyrinth—a twisting maze that led attendees on a journey into Michele’s imagination. The runway itself was a fractured, shimmering path made from artist Alfredo Pirri’s installation “Passi.” The cracked mirrors on the floor created an otherworldly atmosphere, with light refracting in a thousand directions and compelling the audience to confront their own reflections, challenging their perception of reality.

The space was hauntingly adorned with ancient Italian statues shrouded in transparent fabrics, casting ghostly silhouettes that felt like specters of the past coming to life. This interplay between the classical and the contemporary gave the show an air of mystery and surrealism. The feeling was ethereal, almost as though one were witnessing a revival of something long buried—a ghostly presence brought to life.

A New Direction for Valentino

Alessandro Michele’s debut for Valentino was an unveiling, a reflection, and a revelation all at once. It was unexpected, and perhaps even polarizing to those who had come expecting a more traditional approach. But in embracing the brand’s heritage through his distinctive, bohemian-tinged aesthetic, Michele offered new perspective—one that encourages us to see Valentino anew.

The collection’s aristocratic echoes, shimmering details, and rich fabrics invite a reinterpretation of elegance that feels both extravagant and modern. Whether it marks a continuous evolution of Valentino’s identity or a bold departure remains to be seen, but one thing is certain: Michele has truly outdone himself, offering a breathtaking vision that will set the tone for the brand’s future.

Valentino Spring Summer 2025 was more than a runway show—it was an experience. And for a house as storied as Valentino, this moment of transformation, guided by Alessandro Michele, felt as a surprise. One thing is certain: Valentino, under his creative direction, is embracing a surprising yet undeniably beautiful metamorphosis.

See All Looks Valentino Spring Summer 2025