Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2019 at Milan Fashion Week checked-in all his guests at airport for his new collection. The hangar within which was a purpose-built stadium that was a blend of the set of X Factor and Armani’s home fashion theater on Via Bergognone. It held around 2,500 people. There were suspended screens, including a huge back screen showing arrivals and departures.
The flight went on. And color story of Planet Armani went on runway. And finished by icon of 90s Robbie Williams.
“Hello, I’m Robbie Williams, you might remember me from the Nineties. Tonight you are mine,” he told a cheering audience before waving his black walking stick around and breaking into song — and paying tribute to George Michael with a high-energy cover of “Freedom.”
“There’s a new Emporio today, and a new commercial outlook and I thought ‘Why not look back to that time when we put up the sign?’ For me, the past is always present,” Armani said. He sent out his spring collection in that spirit, with a one-off coed show that mostly played to his strengths, and put the focus on slouchy silhouettes and the textured and floaty fabrics and that made him famous.
There were crinkles galore in the featherweight linen skirts and papery cotton fabrics that Armani used for trenchcoats, high-waisted trousers, and roomy tailored jackets in an array of beige and soft neutrals.
Color came in the form of head-to-toe Gatorade green for a suit, a tricky color at the best of times, bright pink for an opaque ankle-length anorak and dark blue on the spangles sprouting from the skirt of cocktail dresses. A lineup of sequin tap pants — on men and women alike — added some Las Vegas-style glitz.
“I was thinking about what Millennials actually like to wear, things that look to the past and recall Seventies and Eighties shapes. I also tried to understand what could be taken from the past — and made modern. So you’ll see jackets and coats that are part nylon, part leather with a vinyl gilet for a sporty touch. But overall, it’s elegant — and less about street.”
As always, the show was big and long — with more than 200 looks making their way down the catwalk in the show space-cum-concert venue — under the sign that’s spoken loud and clear for 22 years.