A Runway Retrospective : fairy tale about miniskirt. One of the most disputable stories in fashion is a story about miniskirt. Fantasy, beauty, history and myths—all in the name of fashion. Miniskirt is so casual today for all women. But the story and dispute not just between designers but between the countries who first cut the long skirt is still out in the open. France, England and United States are discussing this subject.
Generally, the invention of miniskirt is attributed just to Mary Quant in 1963 (or according to other sources in 1965), as she was inspired by new trends on the streets. However the authorship is not shared from all critics and historians of fashion: in France for example, the French designer André Courrèges opened the dispute and said that “I invented the miniskirt. Mary Quant just commercializes the idea” , and Quant answered with the words: “Nor I, neither Courreges invented the idea – the girls in the streets made it”. This today we all take it as the inventor of the miniskirt. But who cut the skirts for these girls on the street? That is the question.
Other authors, such as the journalist Marit Allen, signature of the British edition of Vogue in those years, cites the stylist and costume designer John Bates. Anyhow, Mary Quant had the merit of launching the miniskirt, making it wear to a hairdresser of 17 years, Leslie Hornby called Twiggy (breadstick); the first women who had the courage to wear “the garment of the scandal” were icons as Florinda Balkan, the singer barefoot Sandie Shaw and the model Veruschka.
So we take it as the “the girls in the streets” but to who these girls came to cut the skirt? To the Master Tailor. And this is how this story starts.
Ones upon a time, in beautiful Paris there was a Master Tailor JEAN RAYMOND. Two brothers Raymond and Lucien David Langman were leading the house of their father in Paris in 60s. Lucien David Langman helped to the girls to dare and actually open the knees. And Parisian girls said “Yeye”!
The 1960s was this time when younger female celebrities like Brigitte Bardot were famously abandoning haute couture, calling the highly structured looks stuffy, and fancied short skirts instead. And House of Master Tailor Jean Raymond was just a place for them to try on new revolutionary garments.
And back to Mary Quant. She bought several mini-skirts of Jean Raymond, Fall-Winter 1959-1960 collection, at the “Arts” boutique in Saint Tropez. A place where women feel free and able to wear revolutionary garments. Then Mary Quant introduced the mini-skirt to London. She created her own and proposed Twiggy to wear.
The mini-skirt became the “Yeye” trend in London faster than in Paris, simply because English woman felt more daring than French.
Famous ballet dancers and actresses were the first ones who Dared-to-Wear, then the all daring women followed. Paris refashioned the world, and one more time girls all over the world said “Yeye”!
House of Master Tailor Jean Raymond also proposed to the young fashionistas the tailored masculine costumes and tuxedos. It was exactly the time when young women were introducing their brilliance and professional skills to the world as well as the men.