Fendi Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023-2024. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Fendi.

Fendi’s Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023-2024 collection, under the creative direction of Kim Jones, presents a remarkable achievement in the fusion of fluidity, drape, and shape with contemporary sensibilities. Inspired by Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s high jewellery, the collection embodies the essence of precious stones, drawing from their colors and embellishments to transform the garments themselves into wearable jewels.

The color palette reflects both flesh tones and the hues of black diamonds, rubies, and sapphires, creating a captivating play between softness and solidity, flesh and stone. This harmonious blend establishes an emotional connection between the jewelry and the wearer, as expressed by Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the Artistic Director of Jewellery for Fendi. The precision and intricacy required to create such jewelry, with their small size yet immense strength, imbue them with profound meaning and a unique personality. Ultimately, these pieces become an intimate and personal extension of the woman who wears them.

Kim Jones and the skilled artisans of the Fendi ateliers have successfully married traditional couture techniques with a contemporary approach, resulting in garments that are both human and approachable. Lightness and volume coexist effortlessly, with an emphasis on fluidity, drapery, and ease for the wearer. The collection rejects the notion of “costume” and embraces a softer, more yielding sense of agency for women. Suppleness is sought, not only in how the clothing is worn but also in how it feels against the skin.

Simplicity with hidden intricacies is a prevailing theme throughout the collection. Volume, drape, and sculptural shapes are achieved through meticulous pattern cutting, often with garments realized with only a single seam. This feat showcases the technical brilliance of the Fendi craftsmen. Second-skin silks, intricate knits, neoprene tailored furs, and chevron feathered shearlings enhance the collection’s versatility and demonstrate the brand’s commitment to wearable luxury.

Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s high jewellery pieces seamlessly complement the couture ensembles. Timeless yet contemporary, the exquisite white and yellow diamonds, as well as the rare green, orange, and pink Padparadscha sapphires and spinels, contribute to the overall aesthetic. Notably, the collection of pink spinels featured in the ‘Undarum’ set took four decades to gather and is unlikely to be replicated in nature again. This level of craftsmanship and rarity further emphasizes the exclusivity of the collection.

Embroidery techniques serve as a unifying element between the realms of clothing and jewelry. Models carry jewel box minaudières, adorned with jewel-like embellishments, while layered with intricate stacked tonal paillettes and stones. These details create a sense of depth and opulence, showcasing the discreet multifaceted nature of the couture collection. The final look, with its radiant rose glow, required an astounding 1200 hours of meticulous handwork, demonstrating the dedication and skill of the artisans involved.

The show’s soundtrack, Klaus Nomi’s ‘The Cold Song,’ adds an evocative layer to the presentation. Drawing from Henry Purcell’s English Baroque original, the song reflects the emotion and precision that define both the collection and the essence of couture. Fendi effortlessly combines elements of the past with a New Wave sensibility, establishing a vision that is both timeless and forward-thinking.

In conclusion, Fendi’s Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023-2024 collection is a masterful showcase of craftsmanship, innovation, and elegance. Kim Jones and Delfina Delettrez Fendi have succeeded in intertwining the worlds of clothing and jewelry, resulting in a collection that exudes sophistication and individuality. The meticulous attention to detail, from the exquisite fabrics to the intricate embellishments, speaks to the brand’s commitment to luxury and excellence. Fendi’s ability to create garments that are not only visually stunning but also comfortable to wear further exemplifies their dedication to the modern woman. The collection’s fusion of tradition and contemporary aesthetics sets a new standard for haute couture, and it will undoubtedly captivate fashion enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike.

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