Franck Sorbier Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023-2024 “Couture improvisation”. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Franck Sorbier / Laurent Stephane Montfort / Bruno Le Page.
Franck Sorbier’s Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023-2024 collection is a whimsical and thought-provoking display of artistry and creativity. The designer takes inspiration from the rich history of the caftan, a long and ample coat with sleeves, and reinvents it in a way that is surprising and visually stunning.
Sorbier’s exploration of the caftan’s history is evident in his reinterpretation of the garment. By removing the sleeves, he creates unstructured cardigans, oversized overcoats, and loose overcoats that tell little stories and collide with striking patterns and images. Each piece in the collection is a testament to Sorbier’s ability to blend different artistic influences and create a couture that dreams of adventures and experiences.
The juxtaposition of the cubic cardigan with a tailcoat or frac, a masculine white shirt, and dance tights creates a resolutely urban tone in the silhouettes. The tribal hairstyles by Alexandre de Paris and the charcoal makeup by Natalia Vlasova, accompanied by Serguei Chatel, further enhance the urban aesthetic of the collection.
Sorbier’s collection also reflects the sign of the times, where art has become accessible to everyone. The pieces in the collection make arty intentions and pay tribute to artistic techniques and movements such as Dadaism, Surrealism, Soviet Constructivism, and the German Bauhaus. Artists like Juan Gris, Pablo Picasso, Jacques Prévert, and Jean Cocteau have influenced and embraced this artistic technique.
The eclectic nature of the collection defies the standards of traditional couture, offering a refreshing and unconventional approach. Each model in the collection carries its own unique appeal and invites individual interpretation.
The venue for the collection, the Musée national Jean-Jacques Henner, sets the stage for a poetic and cultural experience. With rock ‘n roll ballerinas, a striking knight on a beautiful steed, and dancers interacting with the works of the museum, the collection becomes a pinnacle of insolent paintings.
Overall, Franck Sorbier’s Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023-2024 collection is a celebration of art, history, and individuality. The designer’s ability to transform a simple square of fabric into something surprising and visually appealing is commendable. Sorbier’s couture is a bold statement that defies conventions and invites each viewer to embrace their own artistic interpretation.
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